On 9/14/2011 9:38 AM, RicodJour wrote:
On Sep 14, 9:19 am, (MICHELLE H.) wrote:
Just a quick question about installing fence posts. We would like to
have a 6 foot high, Cedar wooden stockade fence installed in our yard.
My question is, when putting in the fence posts for the wooden fence, do
the fence posts HAVE to be set in concrete? I know that most fence
companies do set the fence posts in concrete, about 2-3 feet below the
frost line.

I have read many mixed reviews about setting posts in concrete, because
when the posts rot out, it is a backbreaking effort to replace them
because you have to dig out and lift up the heavy concrete.

I have read, as well as heard from people, that it's actually better to
put the posts in a couple inches of 1 and 1/2 inch crushed rock or
gravel.

So, do you have to have the posts put in concrete, or can we opt. to go
with the crushed rock or gravel?

Concrete is not mandatory provided the posts are long enough.

R

Around here, most fence companies only use concrete (if at all) for end
posts, corners, and gate posts. (IMHO, a gate that is used a lot should
have a concrete pad under it to keep the posts parallel, and avoid
mudholes developing in the ruts.) Depends a lot on soil conditions. If
concrete is called for, the post should NOT sit in a concrete pocket,
which keeps it wet all the time. It should set on several inches of
gravel with tamped gravel along the sides for another 8-10 inches, then
concrete above that. Wood posts should be naturally or chemically
rot-resistant material.

As to how deep- depends on local frost line and soil conditions. Around
here, for typical 6 ft privacy fence, it usually looks like 8 or 9
footers coming off the truck. Taller is better, so you can clip the tops
if needed, to get a straight line. Again, for ends/corners/gates, you
may want more post in the ground, and/or angle braces to the next post.

Unless you are young and strong, IMHO this is work to hire out. An
experienced crew makes it look easy. And their auger will be better than
the one you can rent. Unless you have a strong teenager that needs a
lesson, don't even think about doing more than 3-4 holes by hand- the
doctor or painkiller bills will eat up any savings. Posthole digging is
a lot harder and fussier work than digging a big hole with a shovel.

Usual caveats about checking local fence laws and setback requirements
apply. Fence company will likely have all that data available. If this
is on property line, many areas require the 'pretty' side to face out.
And pay attention to sail area- the more resistance the fence offers to
the wind, the deeper the posts need to be. In windy areas, alternating
picket fences are popular- both sides are 'pretty', and the wind blows
right through them.

--
aem sends...