generally anything over 6" is starting to ask for trouble. there are
exceptions of course. Since you are using Red Oak 4" is even better. The
major decision on size is your boards. How wide are they, which ones have
defects that need to be removed? As to variations in width it will matter
greatly on design and aesthetic intentions. If you want to emphasize the
"bread board" effect then varying widths and coloration is what you want.
If you want it to look solid, then more even widths (although minor
variations wont matter.), and even color is your goal, with this remember
the grain too. I say this because you may have to cut a board down a bit to
get a grain direction that works. also remember because it is round/oval you
don't want thin strips at the edge leaving a strip 5-6" long a 1" wide (for
instance)
really it is largely based on What looks good to you?
I can post you pictures of one of my projects if you are curious about panel
matching techniques.

--


"Jim Helfer" wrote in message
...

Tonight I start building the "Limbert Tabourette" featured in 11/03
Pop. Woodworking. This table has to surfaces, one 16" round and one
10.5" square.

Of course I am going to have to edge-join several boards together to
get that width. My question is what would be an appropriate width to
cut the boards for maximum happiness with regard to strength and
appearance.

(For instance, a 16" table top made of 2 8" wide pieces may look
strange, and a bunch of 3" wide strips will most likely end up looking
like a cutting board).

Should I try to have all the "slats" the same width? Why or why not?

This piece will be made of plain-sawn red oak (not the more
traditional q-sawn white oak) if that makes a difference.

Thanks for any ideas

Jim Helfer
Pittsburgh PA