On Sat, 20 Aug 2011 19:19:25 -0400, George wrote:

On Sat, 20 Aug 2011 16:35:00 -0500, "
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Aug 2011 17:13:34 -0400, George wrote:

Our house is built of more-or-less solid cement blocks (c 1920, we
think.) It has a lower roof that butts against the main wall, which
joint I need to flash. My plan for the counterflashing is to cut a slot
along the blocks, to accept the 'top' of some rake edge, with the other
face of the rake laying down over the step flashing.

A single kerf fits the rake edge, but snuggly. I can go with that, and
bed the rake in (silicon?) caulking. Or, I can cut a wider slot
(1/4-1/2"), and bed the rake edge in mortar.

Any thoughts on the pros/cons would be appreciated.

How clean of a slot can you make? I was thinking something along the lines of
rubber rope (think screen spline) to mechanically wedge the flashing, then use
the silicone to seal that in. ...just a thought from a DIYer.

I don't think there's room for a spline, even a thin one - the slot is
cut w/ a masonry blade on an angle grinder, so it's _mostly_ only as
thick as the blade. (There are places where it's less than perfect
straight, I have to say.) As far as wedging it, I have to cut about an
inch off the back of the embedded side of the rake. I plan to leave
tabs in that, and bend those over to wedge it in.

You mentioned cutting a wider slot but perhaps that's not such a good idea
now.

If I'm picturing your setup, you want to fold the tab over to wedge it in. The
folded tab would then expand and lock it into the block and resist pulling.
What you propose sounds like it'll work to hold the flashing. I was just
thinking about something a little stronger mechanically, so the silicone
wouldn't pull out. I'd use the silicone on the tab side (if I'm getting the
picture right) so it helps the wedge/tab hold. Let it set up before you bend
the flashing over.