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Dave Dave is offline
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Default Question on how kitchen sink drain attaches to outgoing line...


"RogerT" wrote in message
...
Dave wrote:
"RogerT" wrote in message
...
Dave wrote:
. . . . . Have emptied the space below the sink and cut away a
portion of the back panel to reveal a moldy expanse of sheetrock
centering around the passage of the drain. Can anyone give me an
idea as to what might lie behind the sheetrock, and what I might do
about it.

P.S. Since you already cut out a portion of the back panel of the
cabinet, it doesn't seem like it would be much of a big deal to also
cut out some of the sheetrock and see what is going on back there. Maybe
you'll be able to see what's leaking and it will give the
plumber an idea of what's going on.


Hey Roger-

Indeed, and that is exactly what I did. Mystery solved. The 2" pipe
that the sink drain eventually connects to, which itself attaches to
the verticle member that becomes the line out was screwed into it's
T-joint (forgive my ignorance, I don't know what it is actually
called) without the benefit of thread compound or teflon tape. And
apparently wasn't screwed in too tightly either. When the water
runs, it leaves via the drain and some of it takes a side trip down
to the bottom of the wall between the kitchen and living room. Leaks
at a prodigous rate, in fact. And apparently has been doing so for
the last four or so years, until everything became so saturated that
it could no longer be contained by sheetrock or the ten feet of space
between the line out and the end of the wall behind the counter.
I am tempted to try to fix it, but think I will let the plumber do
the job, just in case it turns out to be more than meets the eye. We
have a home warranty which we have kept up for 27 years, and it is
about to pay for itself again this year. The offending member is up
against the outside wall of the house, and I don't think I want to
tackle that. Suspect the plumber will have to replace the rusted
T-joint as well as the loose and rusting pipe. And that is not
something I want on my hands.
Thanks for the reply though. Was beginning to think I must be the
total fool, but just couldn't let it rest another 24 hours.

Dave


I'm glad you got to see where the problem is. I can't quite picture the
setup that you are describing, but if the "rusted T-joint as well as the
loose and rusting pipe" means a large 4-inch cast iron pipe, it could be a
very big and expensive job. Or, if the pipes are copper, it could be less
of a big deal. If the pipes are in a wall that is between your kitchen
and living room, they may need to access them through the living room wall
rather than from inside or behind the kitchen cabinets. In any case, if
your home warranty covers most or all of repair work that needs to be
done, that would be great. Let us know how it all turns out.


Hello again,

sorry if I'm not describing the situation very well. The pipes are cast
iron, according to the plumber, and it is a 1.5" pipe (internal diameter)
that is not fitting very well into it's T-section, but that is behind a
rotten stud (2X4) and I really can't see that part. It goes up to a vent
however, and down to the drain, so I am guessing it has to be a T-section at
that particular spot. The home warranty people denied the claim until I can
give the plumber access to the troubled spot, and since it's against the
outside wall of the house that's where he wants "access" to be gained.
Consequently I am having to take down steel siding (on the outside wall of
the kitchen, next to the back door) and cut a hole to expose the troubled
area,. About halfway through at his point. Thanks for your interest. Will
definitely update as progress is made.

Take it easy...

Dave