On 2011-08-02, steamer wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
Sounds good to me. Ideally 1/4" thick G-10 (or similar) if you
have a clearance for the heads of the screws in the plate below it, or
with 1/2" thick, you can counterbore for the heads to keep them
insulated. (And likely dull your counterbore bit beyond reuse. :-)
--Yeah clearance is an issue so I'll have to go with 1/16" for now;
if I ever make a version 2 I'll do that tho..
--Latest news: started work on a foot pedal speed control today;
here's a pictu
http://www.flickr.com/photos/steambo...57627324267926
With luck I'll find a potentiometer with a longer shaft that I can
run thru an oilite bushing in one side of the pedal 'box' to keep it from
bending the leads. The loading is fairly light but it should be reinforced..

Any reason to not mount the pot free of the board, with wires
making the connections? That way, you could either mount it to a
bracket, or mount it on the other side of the side plate, with a small
box over it.

Of course -- first make sure (with an ohmmeter) that the pot is
not electrically connected to one of the leads.

Another possibility is if the sprocket and hub are longer than
the available shaft, is to mount an insulating shaft (Delrin or the
like) on the side panel and use it as a pilot for the outboard end of
the sprocket.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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