On Jul 26, 10:21*pm, (Edward Rice) wrote:
Steve B wrote:
Consider this, Ed. *Put in a 3/4" PVC line, with either hose bibs or quick
connects. *Or a combination of both. *PVC fittings come in the NPT threads
of the hose bib base, AND the 3/4" hose end, allowing for all kinds of
things. *If your yard requires, or you prefer, hand watering with hoses,
that would be the way to go. *Be sure to get the bleeders. *They look like
little green mushrooms, and install in the line with the mushroom head
pointed down. *When you shut off the water, the pressure diaphragm inside
relaxes and the water drains out, preventing freeze bursting. *If you do put
a shutoff on your line, open up the bibs so that air can go in and help
drain ALL the water out. *You can also wrap your pipes, it just depends on
I'll go see what the store carries -- you're making it sound somewhat
easier than I'd hoped. This will be warm-weather only, and drainable
after grass-growing season is over and before a freeze. (Virginia not
far from DC)
Heart surgery pending?
www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com
Heart Surgery Survival Guide
Not quite yet, but ask again after I try this out.
Oren wrote:
My suggestion is to design a proper irrigation for you lawn area. *Do
it for free at http://www.rainbird.com/homeowner/index.htm
3/4 PVC of the schedule 40 or whatever, buried underground about four
inches (drain pipes in winter if needed) will work better than an
octopus all over the yard.
Thanks for the link. You're right, and longer-term I expect to do
something more permanent. I want to try it out first, for a whole
season, see if I can actually get grass to grow well in this spot.
Harry K wrote:
PVC is harmed by UV rays of the sun is is not advised for surface
use. *I do use it and have pipe that has been above ground for years.
It does turn brittle however. *The only repairs I have had to make is
when I forget to drain th system before it freezes.
Assuming I go below-ground for version 2.0, I'll check the pipe for
damage from the sun before re-utilizing it. Thanks.
Your 90 psi and low volume is both way overpowered and under volumned
for a sprinkler system. *60 psi is more than adequate to run sprinkler
heads, pressure over that is harmful to fittings.
Yeah -- I cannot run the pump stepped-down, but I can certainly open two
sprinklers at once, so they'd be getting more like 45. Without the pump,
I can't even run one impulse/impact sprinkler reliably, unfortunately.
Depending on the distance it runs, 3/4 or 1' PVC pipe would be used.
At each station you would need one "T" *that is threaded 3/4" IPL on
one leg , and a brass "hose to 3/4" ipl adapter. *You can have a
"standpipe" arangement by using a plain "T" *short piece of 3/4 pipe
as a riser with a coupler PVC-3/4" IPL on the end
Oren wrote:
My solar pool panel pipes are 2 inches, painted with latex? *No damage
from UV so far. Years old.
That is a project I've been thinking of and can't quite commit to.
Thanks to all for your replies -- they've been very heartening.
Ed
Ed-
Check this out
http://www.torodesign.com/iguide2/tr...nal_step1.html
I did my first automatic sprinkler system nearly 40 years ago.
Before you jump into this (even though it is pretty simple) do some
reading.
Sprinkler systems come down to:
1) how much area you want to water
2) water supply you have available; flow (gpm) & pressure (psi) while
flowing
Sprinkler heads cover an area dependent on the pressure supplied.
They supply varying flow dependent on that pressure.
Spray head type sprinklers require lower pressure and cover smaller
area than impulse sprinklers.
I like Toro 570 spray head sprinklers for lawn areas but you need a
fair number of them to cover substantial areas.
For example, a rectangular area of lawn might need:
2 full heads
4 quarter heads
6 half heads
10’ 570 SERIES (BLUE) WITH 12° TRAJECTORY
PATTERN PSI GPM RADIUS
90° 30 0.40 10’
180° 30 0.71 10’
360° 30 1.49 10’
0-360° 30 2.11 10'
cheers
Bob