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Wyatt Wright
 
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Default cabinet case material - uv plywood

(RemodGuy) wrote in message . com...

Thanks RG... a couple of questions.

Do you recall the manufacturer of the material you used? I have seen
it from Georgia Pacific and Columbia.


not positive right now, but leaning heavily toward GP

I would like to use RTA fasteners because they seem the fastest, but
I'm not sure how that would hold up in the long run. How did you
fasten yours? I wouldn't expect glue to hold very well on the
finished surface.


The way i cut my carcasses, there arent any finished edges butting up.
dado sides to accept the bottom. cut edge unfinished into cut dado,
unfinished. rabbit both sides to accept back panel. same thing.
never put a box together with RTA fasteners. seems like alot of work
though.


Not sure why RTA is a lot of work, predrill and screw as far as I can
tell. Maybe I'm confusing RTA with the confirmat type of screw...??

What then? Glue and screws? I'm leaning towards just making square
boxes - without the built-in toe kick. Then either using a frame on
the floor that I will then level as a base for the cabinets which will
provide the toe kick. This seems like the easiest way to get a level
base. Or attaching feet to the bottom of the cabinets to provide easy
leveling and toe kick as I have seen in Jim Toplin's book.

Does the finish require anything after construction or are you good to
go for case interiors after construction?


build the box and go. like i said, we didnt beat them around too
much. brought the sheet goods in, cut them up, threw face frames on
and got them out asap. another nice thing is that glue that gets on
surface (i glue my face frames on) wipes right off. no glue shadows
in finish from glue in raw wood.

Thanks in advance. The more I learn about this, the more I think I
can do my own cabinets... I must day that it is a daunting task for a
hobbyist and I remain nervous. But I priced cabinets of a quality
that I am pretty sure I can surpass and that I can save 2/3 even after
I buy some new tools...


not sure what tools you have, but even if you make the boxes and order
everything else, you'll be way ahead of the game. the nice thing is
that you'll have ply boxes. i'm sure you've done some homework and
know that cab manufacturers get quite a premium for APC (from $70-$150
per cabinet). if you are not equipped to do your doors and even your
face frames, i've got a catalog from walzcraft industries. i havent
used them yet, but we are so backed up in the shop right now that i am
thinking about ordering doors and face frames for a few vanities going
in a house next month. their prices are reasonable. they have any
style you could possibly want. probably 30 or so species of wood for
options. they even finish for you if you like. they do doors, face
frames, drawer boxes, and sell rough or surfaced lumber (their lumber
prices are high, but if you wanted a few pieces to mill for fillers or
trim at least you know the wood would match the other parts. never
used them though, maybe someone else on the wreck can lend some info
on them.


I have a tablesaw, router table, drill press, jointer, and planer plus
various hand tools. Not sure that I need anything else for the job.
If I decide that I want to go with dovetail drawers, I will pickup a
jig suitable for half blinds. I will probably buy an HVLP to speed up
finishing - not sure if this provides for a better finish, but it
should be alot faster...

If I'm going to do it, I'm going to do as much of it as I can.

Thanks for all of your input.