On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In articlemtSdnfisVoVqqYHTnZ2dnUVZ5gednZ2d@giganews. com, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...
On 7/12/2011 3:28 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
I'm the proud new owner of a Jet 14" bandsaw (This model, but older
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...-Base-Bandsaw-
Model-JWBS14CS.aspx). I plan on resawing and cutting rough timber/firewood
for drying. What do I need to know about using the saw?
I would suggest installing ceramic guides over roller bearing guides.
For serious resawing I use a 1.25" blade with 1.2 TPI. Fewer teeth is
the main focus.
Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was included as
well.
I had used one back in high school, but it was usually just a turn it on
and make a cut operation. There was no thought given to blade tension,
guide adjustment other than height, etc.
That is generally all you have to do with the better HD band saws.
Smaller, less rigid saws tend to have to be treaked more.
Releasing blade tension when not in use is not "tweaking". And "the
better HD band saws" do need the blade tension and guides adjusted when
you change blade widths. If you have to adjust them for every cut
something is wrong.
As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.
Did any one say anything about not releasing the blade tension? No,
only you.
It is not at all unusual for the cheaper built BS's to have to be
tweaked "during" a cutting operation.
Did any one say you have to tweak for every cut? No only you. I said
the smaller less ridgid saws tend to have to be tweaked more.
Many BS's are not sturdy enough to hold the upper wheel tilt setting
through out a cutting operation. Yes their frames bend from the blade
tension. Read that as a 20-30+ minute cutting operation.
Basically many cheaper BS's are not built strongly enough to hold their
settings.
And FYI upper end HD band saw's DO NOT necessarily need to have the
guides adjusted when going from a narrower blade, adjusted for that
blade, to a wider blade. In fact the upper end HD BS's can easily run
with out guides at all. Yes they hold their tracking that well. Further
I almost never have to readjust my upper wheel tilt when going from a
1/2" blade to a 1.25" wide blade and or back again. Try that on a just
about any Home Depot grade BS. Blade tension on HD BS's is much much
less of a necessary adjustment, the blade tends to cut as well at one
blade tension setting as another setting for the same blade. So when
you have been running the saw for 20-30= minutes or during a resawing
operation and the blade becomes longer because of the heat build up
retensioning and upper wheel tilt adjustment during the operation is not
generally needed.
So to requote the OP's paragraph,
I had used one back in high school, but it was usually just a turn
it on and make a cut operation. There was no thought given to blade
tension, guide adjustment other than height, etc.
This is exactly what I do with my HD BS. I don't worry about blades
cooling off, getting hot, readjusting, etc. I tension the blade at the
beginning of the day and release the tension at the end of the day.
So why don't you purchase a HD series MiniMax, Laguna or similar BS and
compare it to "YOUR" BS and see which one you want to use more and get
back to us with your findings.
Feeding concluded.