I've done it but it is a pain in the ass and not really all that accurate.

First thing you have to do is scribe a line all the way around the edges of
the piece, registering it off of the flat face, so you have some idea of
where material has to be taken off and where and when to stop.

After that you sort of use the jointer like a big hand plane varying where
and how much pressure you put on the stock as it passes over the cutters,
reversing ends when called for, etc.

All in all a very inexact procedure that is better done with a hand plane if
a thickness planer isn't handy.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Michael Press" wrote in message
...

At the risk of getting flamed, I want to find out if anyone is using a
jointer for thickness planing

Disclaimer - yes I know the jointer vs. planer debate is hashed out
here weekly, and the correct answer is that you need both a jointer
and a planer, so no need to flame me with those answers.

So the process would be to first do the usual -- joint a face, joint
an edge, rip the opposite edge -- then where you would use a planer,
use the jointer instead on the last face to get the board to final
width. You risk getting the faces out of parallel of course (how
often would this happen?)

I know you can use the jointer to taper a board by starting or ending
a board short of one end. So if you're thicknessing with the jointer
and the 2 faces are getting out of parallel, can't you use the
tapering technique to reduce width on the wider side? It's a hack for
sure, but seems like it might suffice.

Thanks,
Michael