"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2011-07-07, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

[ ... ]

It would also appear that you don't have the dial indicator
mount.


No, there is no indicator mount.

A pity. With a lathe, and a somewhat larger drill press, you
could make one using my description below.


I have a 12 speed floor press with a half inch chuck. Just no access
to a lathe, so far.


That would replace the depth stop (larger thumbnut on top in
front of the one which appears to hold down the belt guard). You would
replace that with one which includes the same threaded shaft as the stop
has (and the nuts would transfer over) but would have a hex top end
perhaps 1-1/2" long, and (at a guess) perhaps 5/16" across flats hex.

The holder is an arm, with a hex hold broached in one end (and
split with a clamp screw with thumbnut) and a round hole in the other
end, also split with a slotted screw to clamp it on the shank of the
dial indicator. The arm is long enough to put the point of the
indicator centered over the top end of the column.

You can determine the angle of the feed lever by sliding a shaft
which fits into the hole in the shank, if you want to make a three-armed
hub. For quick and dirty, just slide the shaft which fits (turned down
a little in the middle where a screw through the end of the shaft holds
it in place. This will be quite awkward, but it will do to feed the
drill -- you will simply have to reach rather far back for the deeper
feeds.

Other than this -- it looks really nice.


Other than a ring of something on the table, it looks almost new.

Just a discoloration? Nothing to worry about. If it is a cut
or a wear pattern, it would be unpleasant, but you could bolt some 1/4"
aluminum to the top surface to get a smooth surface back.


I brought it into the house. I'll see if I can get better photos
with proper lighting. The ring looks like someone set a can os
something on the aluminum. I may be able to clean it off and leave the
original finish.


You may need to adjust the end play in the spindle. To do that,
you loosen an allen head setscrew in the top of the pulley, and screw
the shaft into the pulley to minize the end play, then re-tighten the
setscrew.

[ ... ]

Oh yes -- when you first turn on the motor after it has sat for
a while, there will be a bead of oil around the spindle which will
splash out in all direction. Either tape a guard (some cardboard) to
catch it, wipe it off, or live with it. :-)

I turned it on before I bought it. It was nice and quiet, and the
spindle felt good and tight.

The play which I was mentioning is felt by gripping the chuck
and pressing up and down to feel the end play. If you have it, it is
easy enough to adjust out.


I didn't feel any, when i looked it over before I bought it.


Note the column locking lever behind and a little below the
feed shaft. If you look a little above it, you will see a slotted
setscrew which is useds to adjust side play by bearing against the side
of the rack gear. See whether the front of the head can be pushed from
side to side, and if so, adjust this screw a little.

Read the downloaded manual for adjusting the belt tension.


Thanks for the tips. The pictures that disappeared from the camera
had more detail.

Of *course* they did. That is why they vanished. :-)


I think the 1 GB XD cards draw too much power, but the built in
memory only holds a few pictures. If you look at the names of the
images, they are all consecutive which indicates they weren't written to
the XD card so the counter would increment.


Hmm ... are you in the habit of turning off the camera
immediately after taking a shot? There should be a LED (probably near
the slot where the media goes) which tells you when it is safe to pull
the media (or to turn off the camera).


No, the camera was on through all of the shots.


It was almost 100 F when i took the photos, and I didn't feel up to
going back out in that heat to shoot them again. It's supposed to
cool off some over the next week, so I'll try it again.

I can understand that.

Graingers has the Jacobs K0 chuck key for less than $10.

Just for the fun of it -- ask Gunner what he wants for the
Albrecht chucks? I didn't ask him, because I already have three, and
don't see a need for more. (One for the Cameron, one for the tailstock
of the Compact-5/CNC lathe (along with 1/4" Abrecht, and 3/8" Rhom
(clone of Albrecht) on different arbors), and one for the adaptor --
1/2" chuck down to 1/8" chuck with finger pressure feed.


I will, when I see him on the group, or if he sees this post he can
email me the information.


The only place where your current chuck will be better will be
if you need to hold something larger than 1/8" shank, which is the max
for the little Albrecht chucks.


--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.