Thread: wood screws
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Leon[_7_] Leon[_7_] is offline
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On 7/5/2011 9:25 AM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/5/2011 9:58 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/5/2011 8:46 AM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/4/2011 10:04 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
In , says...

On 7/4/11 8:45 PM,
wrote:
On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 16:16:26 -0500,
wrote:
2nd. It's the "effectively stripping the heads of the screw, as a
side
effect" editorial that clogged my BS filter. An object being
designed
to "cam out" is completely different from "stripping the heads."

Might bolster your discussion if you present an example where the
camming out of the driver is an integral part of use ~ such as
drywall
screws for example where the head of the screw is slightly counter
sunk but not so deep that it has driven itself right through the
drywall.

I'm not the one who brought it up.

Regardless of whether stripping the head is intentional, anybody who
has
worked with Phillips screws knows that when they cam out the result
is a
buggered up head that won't take much torque.

Case hardened drywall screws don't end up with a buggered up heads.


Their heads seldom become none useful, you just hear the click when the
screw shank breaks.


Honest, I don't recall ever breaking a shank on a drywall screw. I have
(rarely) broken shanks on regular screws, never (that I remember) on a
drywall screw. No reason to lie, just my personal experience. I abuse
the hell out of them too, because I know the head won't strip. I'm more
careful with plain screws where I know I can strip out the head w/o much
effort.

Don't doubt your experience at all. I have broken plenty.