On 2011-07-04, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2011-07-04, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
It is in good shape, but it's missing the hub and three handles, and the
chuck key. The price was right, though. 
[ ... ]
Mine has a switch on the bottom rear of the motor which has
three positions -- off, a full speed, and a slower speed (resistor in
series). IIRC, the original switch was center off, but it eventually
burned up, and I replaced it with one which I could set up as
off-slow-fast.
Does yours have that three-position switch? Maybe not, if it is
one of those sold with the solid state speed controllers.
But now, I keep it plugged into a speed controller made for a
Dremel, which gives me more reasonable control of speeds.
[ ... ]
Can you put up an image of the other precision drill somewhere?
Perhaps in the dropbox if you don't have a web site of your own? That
is at http://www.metalworking.com. Click on the bar to give directions
on using the dropbox, then once you have the image(s) there, post the
URL for the dropbox and the name of the image files.
It looks more like a hobby mill. It is buit on an X-Y table with
T-slots It says Emco on the belt guard. I tried to take some photos,
but my camrea refused to work, even with new batteries.
O.K. Is it possible that the previous batteries leaked and
corroded the terminals in the camera?
As for the device which is resisting being photographed -- you
say Emco (not Enco?) In that case, based on what description you gave,
I think that I know what it is.
Let me describe it (from memory) and you check against that:
1) X-Y base possibly marked "Made in Spain".
2) Column held to back of base by an adaptor (a piece of metal
painted a light orange (though it could be other colors, I
guess)).
3) Column is round, reduced in diameter at the bottom and clamped
in the adaptor.
4) Head is clamped to the column by another adaptor, which
provides a tilting adjustment to the head.
5) A finned motor sticking up from the left of the head, with
two metal bodied capacitors beside it.
6) A lever to move the quill down a fairly short distance, and
(perhaps) an additional feature which engages a gear around the
feed shaft and is turned by an Allen wrench at the end. Loosen
a screw and tilt it to disengage it for faster feed.
7) A hinged door which gives access to the belt (three steps), and
you need to loosen another screw to allow the motor to move to
slack the belt to change steps.
8) Spindle nose is a M14x1 thread -- not hollow at all.
9) Various things screw onto that. I've got (came with mine)
A drill chuck (0-6mm(1/4")).
A collet holder (ER-25 series.
A fly cutter.
And -- I made an adaptor to put a small boring head on it as
well.
Now -- the column is too skinny for the job, and what I did with
mine is to drill and tap a hole in the top end (metric, of course, to
match the rest of the machine), and make a triangle of aluminum angle
"iron", with one apex over the top of the column, and the other two
against the wall where the back side is bolted to give more rigidity.
Note that the tilt pivot for the head is not clamped strongly
enough, and if a cutter bites in, it will tilt the head, even when you
don't want that. :-)
The speeds really don't get slow enough for my taste.
But -- it still does useful things.
Best of luck with the Cameron.
Thanks. I'd hate to think that I wasted the $20.
Somehow -- I don't think so.
Yes -- the parts from Cameron will likely cost more than you
paid for the machine, but be well worth it.
If they turn out to be too expensive, I could pull mine apart
and measure it. Do you have a lathe large enough to make the hub?
I suspect the dimensions will all be inch, FWIW. You won't be able to
duplicate the appearance of the original, but you should be able to
duplicate the functionality. You'll need to be able to chuck up
something which is perhaps 3" diameter to start with, I think.
Enjoy,
DoN.
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