On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 21:55:00 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Jul 1, 9:58*am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 07:22:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry K

wrote:
On Jun 30, 9:12 am, Brooklyn1 Gravesend1 wrote:
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:22:08 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
80 cents a foot? That's more pricey than garden hose?

A 500 foot garden hose isn't going to pass much water.

Why not? Hose length has no bearing on water volume, only diameter
matters.

Because friction in the pipe will reduce pressure by a bunch.

A "bunch"... is that universally recognized scientific nomenclature?
Internal turbulence does not occur to any appreciable degree in
typical hard pipe, especially not with smooth plastic irrigation
tubing. *Fire hose is coarsely woven cloth so is rough and does cause
turbulence but still reduction in volume is negligible considering the
very high pressure pumps used for fire fighting... were it presenting
a water volume problem you could bet your bippee that fire fighters
would use something else. *I can't imagine anyone using fire hose to
water their garden. *However gals like fire fighters watering their
gardens because of their big rough hoses with all their volume and
high pressure... and especially how they fold up so neatly for storage
in their drawers. LOL-LOL

Stretch out 500 ft of hose under 60psi and see what you have at the
end when the water is running.

I've done that occasionally... just as much volume exits 100' 200',
300' 400' as 500' or more, so long as the hose is not kinked/flattened
or otherwise constricted or run up hill whatever volume enters
exits... I'm positive you've never actually done what you suggest,
except tinkling with your tiny 2" fuse. What people don't realize is
that their hose bib valve is what dictates volume.. if your hose bib
is supplied by 1/2" copper using 5/8" hose won't supply any more
volume than a 1/2" hose, except for the first couple seconds untill
the little more volume in the larger hose is expelled, kinda like the
first burst or pressure from a pressurized hose laying out in the hot
sun... a very brief surge. And most folks do have 1/2" domestic water
plumbing in their homes to each outlet... then the only benefits of
using 5/8' garden hose is that its larger diameter and wall thickness
is much less prone to kinking/collapsing and has a longer life than
1/2" hose. It's silly to buy 3/4" garden hose for the typical
residence, it offers no benefit, it won't produce more volume and will
be heavy/clumsy, and will quickly fill your hose reel, not to mention
being more costly for nothing... 3/4" hose probably can't be coiled
into a small enough diameter to fit the typical home owner's hose reel
anyway... 3/4' hose is meant for commercial applications. One can
increase pressure at the discharge by limiting exit diameter, by
adjusting a nozzle, but that reduces volume... volume can't be
increased past what is supplied from the source. There is only so
much volume available from the typical residential water supply,
that's why sprinker systems are installed with several zones...
without separate zones if all the heads were run at once they'd
dribble n' drip like your widdle impotent peepee. It's plain
silliness installing a grid of piping over a six acre property and
then supply it from a residential well, one would still need to walk
about opening one valve at a time and stand there like a putz watering
for however long before moving on to the next area. MUCH easier
hauling water to the various plants... leave a bucket with a hole in
it by each plant, and just refill from your hauled buckets as needed,
less than 30 seconds per plant. Many large commercial nurserys use
this system, wastes far, FAR less water... many sink a few 3' lenghts
of 4" perforated poly pipe into the ground around each newly planted
sapling, then periodically pass by hauling a water tank with watering
wand in hand, don't even need to get down from the tractor to fill the
irrigators.