On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 19:56:19 -0400, PC
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 15:34:36 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 06:34:13 -0700 (PDT), Sonny
wrote:

On Jun 18, 10:51Â*pm, Vic Smith
wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 22:25:31 -0400, PC
wrote:





On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 14:17:09 -0700, Smitty Two wrote:

In article ,
PC wrote:

I attached a picture although I am not sure if you can see it. If not, I can
email a picture to you.

Take several clear, focused, relevant pictures, long shots and closeups
from inside and outside. Post to a free picture hosting site. Post links
to those pictures here. You cannot post pictures directly to a.h.r.

Thanks. Here are some pictures:

Outside close up Â*http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/6728/windowks.jpg

Inside. You can see the aluminum frame on the left side and where it used to be on the bottom. The
fin went in between the sill and the siding. Â*http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/6128/windowinside.jpg

Outside widehttp://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3894/windowoutsidewide.jpg

Here is the mess I got myself into. I bought two windows for the same room. They are identical other
than the size. The are right next to eachother. One is on the perpendicular wall. The way I see it,
I can install the one I didnt ruin and use the aluminum frame as the stop. I just dont know if I can
salvage the one I f'd up. I guess I can get the new installation version of it but it probably will
look different than the replacement window that will be next to it. Â*

You made some work yourself, but it looks fixable to me.
If the rest of the window is tight to weather, you just have to fit in
a correctly sloped sill, and maybe cover the aluminum to dress it up.
White would probably do.
I would undercut the old sill a bit and make it level as possible.
Small belt sander and/or chisel.
Screw the new sill piece in. Â*Long drill bits to countersink holes.
Plenty of caulk.
Some saw work needed to fit.
It's hard to tell the cosmetics from pictures, but you'll know what
looks decent.
Might be some plastics would work as well or better than wood.
The main thing is getting it all weather tight.

--Vic- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

DIY or modified sash replacement kit! I'm not being nasty or
critical. Time for some "damage control", kindly said.

Is there any way you can easily/conveniently remove the bottom vinyl
(window frame) exterior face molding piece, such that it can be
easily, reasonably, replaced? If so....

Re - Your first pic: The bottom fin (of your new sash) is butted
against raw wood (the old sill?). I can't see/identify the sash's
side fins, to see how they are seated. Pull the bottom of the
(window) sash out, a bit, and slide some kind of moisture barrier
(felt, rubberized wrap) between the fin and that raw wood. Push the
sash back against the sill/wood. Extend the moisture barrier
exteriorly (toward the outside of the house). Your new, extended sill
should butt against the fin and butt under the sash's sill. As Vic
has said, good caulking at the new/old sill/fin junction is
recommended. In this above described process, if you are/were able to
remove the bottom exterior vinyl face molding, you will want to extend
the moisture barrier beyond the vinyl siding.... I'm not sure how
this is going to work out, as I can't quite see exactly what is there.

Prior to extending the moisture barrier and installing the new
extended sill: Is there any significant gap between the original
exterior wall and the vinyl siding? If so, you need to fill that gap,
so that the vinyl siding is/can be butted and attached securely
against the exterior wall, all along (left to right) the window span.
This security will facilitate the moisture barrier stability and the
new sill extension, beyond the vinyl siding.

If you are able to install a moisture barrier along the sides of the
sash, shielding any raw wood, do so. I understand the vinyl siding,
face molding and/or the aluminum frame may interfere with this
installation. If I understand correctly, though, the aluminum framing/
jams are still in place along the sides, hence, no raw wood exposure
and negating installation of a moisture barrier, here. I am supposing
you understand the need/concept to shunt water/moisture beyond the
vinyl siding. I hope you can easily/convenietly install a moisture
barrier, in adddition to the new sill/framework.

If you have to add any wood or rebuild something, use treated lumber
or a composite material, if possible.

Are you located near Lafayette, La.? I'd come over and give you a
hand.

Sonny
I have not seen the pictures, but from my experience, having worked
for 2 window companies a few years back, what I would have done, and
it may not be too late yet, is install the windows with a "brick mold"
instead of a "fin". The fin can be removed, and a brick nmold kit
odered, from most vinyl window manufacturers. This brick mold seals
against the siding on the outside, most good installers today use a
thermoplastic caulk to seal it - and the window then fits in from the
outside. The inside jam is extended to the required depth to allow
interior trim to be installed. The space between the window frame and
the house framing is filled with low-expanding foam after the window
has been blocked into place, making sure it is totally plumb and
square, in all directions.. This makes it airtight and sound-tight,
and if installed in this way it will also be completely water and
moisture tight.
Ideally the windoe will be ordered about half an inch smaller than the
"rough opening" - which needs to be established before ordering.
Usually not hard to determine by removing one or more pieces of
internal trim to measure the thickness of the jam, and removing double
the jam thickness from both vertical and horizontal measurements of
the "finished opening"

Thanks everyone. I was able to return the replacement windows to Home Depot minus 15% restocking fee
and went to Lowes and bought new construction windows. This is really the best way to do it. Thanks
for the suggestions though. It seemed like it was going to be as difficult making a modification
tothe frame than it would to just stick new ones in.

Tony
I'd never install "inserts" - from the aforementioned experience I've
found "new constructon" of "rough opening" windows are just about the
only way to go.