On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 06:34:13 -0700 (PDT), Sonny wrote:
On Jun 18, 10:51*pm, Vic Smith
wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 22:25:31 -0400, PC
wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 14:17:09 -0700, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
PC wrote:
I attached a picture although I am not sure if you can see it. If not, I can
email a picture to you.
Take several clear, focused, relevant pictures, long shots and closeups
from inside and outside. Post to a free picture hosting site. Post links
to those pictures here. You cannot post pictures directly to a.h.r.
Thanks. Here are some pictures:
Outside close up *http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/6728/windowks.jpg
Inside. You can see the aluminum frame on the left side and where it used to be on the bottom. The
fin went in between the sill and the siding. *http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/6128/windowinside.jpg
Outside widehttp://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3894/windowoutsidewide.jpg
Here is the mess I got myself into. I bought two windows for the same room. They are identical other
than the size. The are right next to eachother. One is on the perpendicular wall. The way I see it,
I can install the one I didnt ruin and use the aluminum frame as the stop. I just dont know if I can
salvage the one I f'd up. I guess I can get the new installation version of it but it probably will
look different than the replacement window that will be next to it. *
You made some work yourself, but it looks fixable to me.
If the rest of the window is tight to weather, you just have to fit in
a correctly sloped sill, and maybe cover the aluminum to dress it up.
White would probably do.
I would undercut the old sill a bit and make it level as possible.
Small belt sander and/or chisel.
Screw the new sill piece in. *Long drill bits to countersink holes.
Plenty of caulk.
Some saw work needed to fit.
It's hard to tell the cosmetics from pictures, but you'll know what
looks decent.
Might be some plastics would work as well or better than wood.
The main thing is getting it all weather tight.
--Vic- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
DIY or modified sash replacement kit! I'm not being nasty or
critical. Time for some "damage control", kindly said.
Is there any way you can easily/conveniently remove the bottom vinyl
(window frame) exterior face molding piece, such that it can be
easily, reasonably, replaced? If so....
Re - Your first pic: The bottom fin (of your new sash) is butted
against raw wood (the old sill?). I can't see/identify the sash's
side fins, to see how they are seated. Pull the bottom of the
(window) sash out, a bit, and slide some kind of moisture barrier
(felt, rubberized wrap) between the fin and that raw wood. Push the
sash back against the sill/wood. Extend the moisture barrier
exteriorly (toward the outside of the house). Your new, extended sill
should butt against the fin and butt under the sash's sill. As Vic
has said, good caulking at the new/old sill/fin junction is
recommended. In this above described process, if you are/were able to
remove the bottom exterior vinyl face molding, you will want to extend
the moisture barrier beyond the vinyl siding.... I'm not sure how
this is going to work out, as I can't quite see exactly what is there.
Prior to extending the moisture barrier and installing the new
extended sill: Is there any significant gap between the original
exterior wall and the vinyl siding? If so, you need to fill that gap,
so that the vinyl siding is/can be butted and attached securely
against the exterior wall, all along (left to right) the window span.
This security will facilitate the moisture barrier stability and the
new sill extension, beyond the vinyl siding.
If you are able to install a moisture barrier along the sides of the
sash, shielding any raw wood, do so. I understand the vinyl siding,
face molding and/or the aluminum frame may interfere with this
installation. If I understand correctly, though, the aluminum framing/
jams are still in place along the sides, hence, no raw wood exposure
and negating installation of a moisture barrier, here. I am supposing
you understand the need/concept to shunt water/moisture beyond the
vinyl siding. I hope you can easily/convenietly install a moisture
barrier, in adddition to the new sill/framework.
If you have to add any wood or rebuild something, use treated lumber
or a composite material, if possible.
Are you located near Lafayette, La.? I'd come over and give you a
hand.
Sonny
Thanks for the detailed reply. Hey Sonny, is Long Island close enough to La? I am going to go
outside and take a look closerat what the heck is going on there. I now know that there is asbestos
shingles under my siding. I had no idea before I did this.
I have one more question about this.
This is looking at the left frame head on
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/2193/frame1j.jpg
This one is slightly looking left so that you can see the protrusion. It looks like 1/16 - 1/8" out.
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/4777/frame2e.jpg
Here are two pics of the second aluminum window frame. Note the protruding piece of aluminum that
runs in the middle of the frame. It is there for the entire length of the left and right vertical
frame. The whole reason I caused this mess is that if I simply installe the replacement against the
framee, it would only make contact with the protrusion and not the entire frame. Since I was doing
this more for sound reduction (from my always noise, inconsiderate day and night neighbors), I would
think there wouldnt be a good enough seal to accomplish that. If it would have been ok to install it
that way, then I did all of this for nothing. . Please look at the following pics:
Tony