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Edward Hennessey Edward Hennessey is offline
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Default How to clean plastic-bristled brush used for applying polyurethane? (Ecofriendly process preferred ...)


"FairFax" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 23:14:49 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:


"FairFax" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:22:33 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

On Jun 3, 4:59 am, FairFax wrote:
I have a woodworking project I'm starting but don't know how to clean
the brush after applying coats of polyurethane. Any recommendations?

Thanks.

Just wait till the brush dries out then you can just blow the dust off
with a an air hose.

Is this really the case? Seems a bit too good to be true, no? g
thx.


F:

You can blow the dust out, just not the paint.


Ah, thanks!

A couple of other tips would be:


(couple?? Lots, thank you!!)

*Try not to get paint in the upper third of the brush.
Try. Painting upside down makes gravity the enemy.

*If you are using a water-based paint, very, very lightly
pre-wet the brush and use a brush spinner or very gently
flick the brush along its length across a board or something
to get most of it out. Water-based paint will load better
this way.

*When you do get paint in the forbidden zone and intend
to use the brush again, you might find a fine comb good at
removing it. Don't let the paint cake in that region because
it's no fun getting it out.

*The solvent/water (depends on the paint) cleaning followed
by a detergent and water
cleaning works nicely. Rinsing with pure water
to purge the second mix is the last step.
If you have a brush spinner, you can use that to dry
the brush or flick it along its length to drive off the moisture.

*When through cleaning, putting the brush in the supplied
cardboard sleeve you don't have would be nice. A gentle
winding with cling wrap also is good. This helps the brush
retain it's designed shape if you didn't mash it.

*Remember the name "Purdy". Great brushes. If you want
to hold a fine line or paint a particular angled area or cover
an area of certain width, they make dedicated brushes.
They're not cheap, but, just like ladies, if you treat them
well, age hardly withers nor does time stale them. Someone
here will tell you of a well-tended Purdy that could probably
be in Junior High by now.

*Ask your paint store about the foam "hot dog" rollers and
your paint. Sometimes you use them alone. Sometimes on
complex things like doors in combo with brushes. For certain
paints, the furry knap rollers are good too.

*Start high and work down low. That
way you don't drip on finished areas.

*If you have to stop in the middle of a painting project,
some people refigerate their brushes wrapped in cling
film. I haven't tried it. But if a brush gets gummy on a
hot day, I will stop for a cleaning before continuing.

*Ask about blue painter's tape. Ask how to get the
best edge seal by burnishing. Frog tape is mighty
fine but not mighty cheap.

*Don't believe every bit of the above is gospel or the
whole of it. Other people will have good ideas.

*Next time, say you're a lady to start. We don't often get
the chance to practice at the gentleman thing.



F:

smile That's so very kind, thank you! g
Now there you've gone and made me feel all mush! vbg


Either you are surrounded by flying monkeys in bell hop suits while
disappearing under a tall, pointed hat or the alarm bells is setting
to fire off at an inopportune moment.

Thanks for the excellent help. I read all this and all a great
education all at once! Thanks. I've never had the need to
paint/strip, etc., so this is new territory and was a bit
intimidating. Dad did give me a couple of pointers before he flew out
of the country but I haven't wanted to bother him for more since he's
got so much on his plate. So thanks much! Much appreciated.


In parting, I recollected and collected a few more mentions.
Anything can be intimidating without experience, so maybe
these will spur you to that:

*Do thorough preparation. Scrape off any fragmenting
covering until the surface is stable. Sand to smooth
any irregularities you don't want to see, to give "tooth"
to a slick surface, to get past any surface "chalking".

*Clean with a light mix of water, ammonia and alcohol
if your surface is dirty. If it is nastily grimy, you will
need a detergent/water/alcohol mix. Alcohol is a solvent
but it is vital to speed drying. Don't saturate bare wood.
Wet wood doesn't paint well. Rinse the wood with water and
alcohol. Let it dry.

*Paint/varnish along a wet line. On a hot day or big things
this is important. If you return to extend finished surface
that has dried to the point your new brushing will disturb
it, you wont like it.

*Don't paint in the hot sun if you can time it otherwise.
Unless you like bubbles.

Bon chance,

Edward Hennessey



Regards,

Edward Hennessey