The reply from whit is a good suggestion, but I suspect that the cells in
the drill are shorted, which will damage a charging power supply. It seems
that the old supply became overheated and failed, which will happen if the
cells are shorted.
I believe this is the reason for the substitute wall wart getting hot.

To find out if the cells are shorted, the cells need to be accessed, and
individually checked with an ohm meter or an instrument capable of measuring
battery cell impedance or ESR.
Also, a reading for individual cells with voltmeter reading of zero volts
generally indicates shorted cells.

Replacing all of the cells is the most effective solution, and cells with
tabs can be soldered together in the original order, and restore full (or
even better) operation of the drill (or most cordless tools).

If you have the ability to make good solder connections, replacement is
usually less costly than paying someone else to do the work.

There are numerous online sellers with reasonable prices for replacement
cells.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...

I've a Skil Mod 2375 3/8" cordless drill (9.6v) thats nearly an antique.

The old wall wart outputs dc 11v, 250 mA when functional. It now has a
slight
bulge and outputs 0v.

I rumble thru my box of WW's, find one at rated output of dc 12v, 300 mA,
splice the wires, plug it in to see if it will charge. It will, but it
heats
up a bunch, enough to burn my fingers a little.

Are there any guidelines for substituting these things? I'd like to keep
the drill,
but can hardly afford to burn the house down. :-)

Thx,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."