KenO wrote:

I tried to connect a hard drive while the [power supply] was turned on and [it] blew.

When I inspected the [power supply] components and PC board, found the fuse did
Not blow and only visible damage was a short section of burned wire of
one inductor coil. If you tell me how will post photos of the [power supply] for
your examination.

Try a photo posting place, like Flickr.com , PhotoBucket.com , or, if
you don't want to register with the site, try TinyPic.com or
ImageShack.us .

Really, really good FAQ about electronics repair: www.RepairFAQ.org

Unplug the AC power cord before opening the power supply, and don't
even test it unless its cover is fully installed (all screws
tightened).

I'm no expert, but I've never seen a fusible resistor inside a common
PC power supply, except maybe the large rectangular ceramic ones.
Fusible resistors are more common on motherboards, near the ports for
the keyboard, mouse, and USB, and on hard drives (usually next to a
zener to protect against overvoltage, and if it triggers, the fuse
associated with it pops). When regular resistors open up (higher than
rated resistance), they usually show burn marks or cracks, but fusible
resistors usually open up without showing damage.

The only coils that tend to burn in power supplies are those for the
automatic power factor correction (high voltage side) and the output
filters (low voltage side), and I think your problem is related to the
latter because those coils run hot, and those coils vary a lot in
size, depending not only on power ratings but also on the quality. If
the affected coil is in the low voltage section, maybe you can
separate its wires from one another in the burned area and coat them
with varnish. Do NOT do this if the coil handles high voltage.
Typically when a PC power supply fails and its fuse doesn't pop, the
problem is in the low voltage section, such as a shorted diode or
MOSFET or a worn electrolytic capacitor. Use only low-ESR capacitors
for replacement, preferrably of the same diameter (tight fit in
there). Any replacement diode or MOSFET has to be of the same type
(diode should be Schottky) and meet the same minimum ratings for amps,
volts, and watts. To remove anything attached to a heatsink, it's
usually necessary to unsolder everything, including the heatsink.