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[email protected] stans4@prolynx.com is offline
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Default Anybody remember 'tuning' AC appliances for lower current draw...

On Apr 18, 1:03*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
snippage
Here in the desert..we run swamp coolers 24/7 at least 5 months..often
times 6 months of the year.

Mine is a MasterCool brand, that normally takes a 3/4hp motor. *These
motors (AW Smith typically) go bad every year, or every other year.

Ive got a 1hp motor, different type, GE, that I snagged a week or so
ago, as my motor..as usual..has gone bad. *Its a Capaciter start, as
opposed to the standard AW Smith start winding motors.

Several questions:

Im running 110vt

Would it be cheaper to convert and run it at 220vt?

What would the difference be between that 3/4hp and 1hp motor in cost of
operation?

We (the area) *are victims of the Gray Davis/Pacific Gas and Electric
rip off 10 yrs ago..and are still paying electricity at 2-3x the normal
rate in areas outside of our own.

http://www.pge.com/tariffs/rateinfo....e-bakersfield/

I also need a new cooler pump..and before I buy one..110vt OR 220
volt..it would be nice to have some idea of the cost benefits/negatives
of running at *different voltages

Thanks guys.

Gunner

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You reduce the I squared R losses in the wiring and connectors by
going to 220 from 120. Will probably be negligable at the motor sizes
you're talking about. Really comes in to play at high currents and/or
long supply runs.

No real pluses or minuses other than the cost of conversion. You'll
have to change the breaker to supply 220 and there may be a price
difference between a 120 and 220 motor of the same power output
rating, 120 being more popular for the fractional horsepower market.

How do these motors fail? Lack of lube or bad bearings? Shorted
windings? Bad starter switches or caps? Are they selling you low-
duty cycle motors when you need one with a continuous rating?

Stan