"mike"

If cells with solder tabs and the bulge caused by the solder and wire
still fit in the space, that's the way to go.


** There is a simple way to join ( un-tagged) cells very neatly, tip to
base, that uses just a few centimetres of 1.5 mm dia solid copper wire. Here
it is:

The copper wire ends are first tinned and one end soldered to the *side of
the tip* of one cell and then the other end soldered the outer edge of the
base of another. A quick twist and the two are perfectly connected in
series with no increase in overall length.


People tell you that you can safely solder on cells. That ain't the case.
Yes, if you're very experienced at soldering on batteries, you may
be able to do it most of the time without serious degradation.
If this is your first attempt, expect to ruin at least some of them.

** This is just not true.

There's a reason they weld the tabs.

** It's quick, cheap and nasty.

Most spot welded joints have so much resistance the joint gets VERY HOT
when packs are subjected to a fast discharge - ie when used on RC models
involved in racing etc.


People who have to ask "how hard it is" should NOT be soldering on
batteries...even if some "newsgroup expert" says THEY can.


** You need a good soldering iron - preferably a modern, variable temp
station and iron rated at 50 watts with a large tip size fitted and full
setting ( ie 450C) on the temp dial.

Then one works quickly and purposefully with ordinary, rosin cored 60/40
solder. The nickel plated surfaces of fresh Ni-Cd or NiMH cells usually tin
so quickly - it fair makes your head spin.


...... Phil