"Meat Plow" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 01:55:09 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
Arfa
How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in
bright light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can
take a pic of it and put it on photobucket:
This is with backlight:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...1/Electronics/
cimg0047.jpg
This is with reflected light only:
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...1/Electronics/
cimg0046.jpg
As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
the screen.
It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with
reflected light.
Hmmm. As you say, the display error does not appear to be there in the
second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how
the things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that
it's a ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly
being thick enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless
someone else knows, I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple of
weeks ago, back out of the workshop bin (un-emptied, and overflowing, as
always !!) and see if I can see what lights it
Arfa
Yeah it's strange. It almost make me want to think it's LED backlit. I
just don't see how those streaks would be there while lit with ccfl. And
even when lit if you hold it in strong light the streaks disappear. When
you pry apart the buckles that hold the top on, is there a special tool?
The green tool in the video looked specialized just to pry the buckles
apart on an Ipod. This unit was given to me at no cost so a new display
is a definite option but my propensity towards repair makes me want to
try to fix it first. If it's somehow LED backlit there might be some bad
soldering. The previous owner told me the streaks appeared out of the
blue, no reason.
Also, have you have an IPod Touch apart? A neighbor kid has a 16 GB unit
with an intermittent audio jack. I suppose it's a solder job but I'll
have to figure out how to unbuckle it without breaking the glass.
You don't need any special tool to get the clips to spring - although some
replacement batteries I've seen advertised, come with that tool to
facilitate fitting by Joe Public. I use an Excelite scalpel with a blunt
curved blade. It easily gets in there, and springs the clips.
The Touch is also quite easy to get into, again using the scalpel. but you
have to be careful not to crack the touchscreen. If you can find a piece of
thin stiff plastic - maybe an old filed down credit card or something - it
may be safer for your first attempt. The case springs off from the front.
You have to get into the small crack between the glass of the touchscreen,
and the metal case back, where it curves around to meet the glass. The LCD
display, and touchscreen glass are fitted together into a thin plastic
'frame' that completely surrounds the four edges, and it is to this frame
that the case is clipped. So, once you have started to insert your springing
tool, before you have gone in too far, you need to bend the 'free' end of it
in towards the screen, so that the inserted end is moving away from the
crack. The tool tip will then slide down the outside of the thin frame,
inside the metal cover. Once it has gone down there, you can bend the tool
back up away from the screen, and this will flex the metal case off the
plastic frame. Once it has started to open like this, it's just a case then
of following round the four sides until it's off. It's that first insertion
that's critical if you are using a metal blade. If you accidentally get
between the thin plastic frame and the glass, when you try to flex the case
off, you will instead crack the display. Don't ask me how I know this ...
All of the component parts of the display are available for very reasonable
prices, but the frame, touchscreen and display form a well-stuck-together
assembly, and it's a lot of effort to successfully get it apart to replace
either a broken touchscreen, or display, so you end up buying a replacement
ready assembled unit.
If you look on that parts site I pointed you at, I think that they have a
picture of the assembly, so you can see what I mean about the thin frame
that you have to be on the outside of, when you insert your tool (!) I'm
sure that there are probably dismantling videos on You Tube, as well.
The headphone problem will not be a soldering job. The sockets are notorious
for going bad (also on Classics). The good news is that once you're inside
the unit, it is a straightforward job to replace it. It comes complete on
its own flexiprint, ready to just plug in to a little zif connector, and it
is extremely reasonably priced. I think I paid just a few quid delivered for
the last one I got - say $5 in leftpondian wonga.
One last thing to watch out for. The touchscreen is connected to the main
board with an almost microscopic plug on the end of its flexiprint. It's
very tricky to get it to reconnect correctly the first time you ever do one.
It's a bit like one of those tiny tiny coax plugs that you find on the wifi
antenna in laptops, in that delicate as it *appears* to be, it actually
needs to be pushed *really* firmly once you are happy that it is sitting
squarely over the socket on the main board. It will then go with a really
solid click. If it doesn't do this, your touchscreen will be intermittent or
inoperative when you get the unit all back together. The thing that makes
this final operation tricky to do, is that the flexiprint 'tail' with the
plug on it, is very short.
With a bit of care, I wouldn't expect someone of your experience to struggle
too much with the job. Let us know how you get on with it.
Arfa