I've been using the DeoxIT products for over 2 decades, and have rarely used
anything else on pots or switches. The products work well enough that I
haven't needed to use anything else.

I don't flood the parts, but instead use a small bottle with a needle tip
for aplying the liquid. This prevents washing the grease out of the shaft
bushing, which then results in a control with no stiffness.

I also use the grease/paste deoxidizer products for pots and switches. When
possible, I'll put a small dollop of grease on the end of a toothpick, and
place the pot wiper in full CW rotation to add a small amount of grease
directly to the wiper, then repeat this in the full CCW position.
After a couple of rotations, the track and wiper are fully lubricated and
preserved.

When I would service VCR mode switches, I'd open the housing and first clean
the swicch tracks with the liquid on a cotton swab, or the angled end of a
cut wooden swab stick to remove all traces of oxidation, then add a small
amounr of grease/paste to the tracks before closing the housing.

Some pots and swiches are sealed, or nearly sealed, and I'll try to get some
liquid inside without disassembling the parts. The liquid migrates thru
small seams fairly easily, so many can be improved with a little patience.

For larger areas of oxidation such as silver-plated XLR pins or other large
parts, I generally use Tarn-X to remove the oxidation, then rinse/wipe with
a water wetted swab. After the parts are dry, I'll briskly rub the part with
a swab with the liquid on it.

I almost never use abrasive materials on items such as relay contacts, as
cleaning them is generally a better practice. For badly pitted contacts,
especially if they carry significant currents, it's better to replace the
part, IMO.
Physical and mechanical faults generally require replacement, since applied
products won't be very effective.

Checking pots and switches with an analog ohm meter will reveal whether the
application of products is successful. Cycling the part numerous times will
typically give a good indication of worthiness.

I started using the liquid fader lube a couple of years ago, and although
the formula is probably different, it seems to act about the same as the
regular liquid. If it's not too difficult, I'll try to get the grease/paste
onto the track, similar to the method for pots.

The liquid products are very effective for lubricating small bearing
surfaces and ball bearing assemblies.. they also work very well for removing
stickers and sticky residues from adhesive tape or other gunk.

I've found that when applied to aged/faded black plastic, they also give the
plastic a dark luster, not just shiney.. and don't leave the plastic
slippery, like silicone or Armorall-type products.

As far as the comments regarding WD40, some folks just couldn't live without
that stuff, but the best use for it is as a degreaser.. stoddard solvent.
Oh, and it will attract fish when applied to bait.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote in message
...
On another list we have been discussing using Caig DeOxit on pots (e.g.
Volume, balance, etc controls).

Caig has another product called "Fader Lube", which I assume is designed
for such a use.

The question I have is has anyone used the regular DeOxit on such controls
and the results? A web search yielded many hits of people using DeOxit and
having good results, and even a YouTube videos of it.

It's hard to tell from the postings, and the videos, how many the people
posting have done. Some of them are obviously people who have done
one or two, and others are not. I'm interested in hearing long term
experience.

Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.