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Heather Mills Heather Mills is offline
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Default Best glue for sink faucet cap

On Mon, 07 Feb 2011 13:37:11 -0500, mm
wrote:

On Mon, 07 Feb 2011 09:00:57 -0800, Heather Mills
wrote:

On Sat, 05 Feb 2011 11:16:03 -0600, Jim Yanik
wrote:

Frank wrote in
:

On 2/5/2011 2:16 AM, Heather Mills wrote:
We have a bunch of sink faucets with what I think are porcelain caps.
The caps cover a hole. A couple of them have popped off. Here's a
photo.

http://tinypic.com/r/2eb8io7/7

I'd like to glue the cap back on, but don't know what glue to use.

It looks like they used some type of contact cement originally. I
chipped a little off and laid a chip sideways on the top at about
10:00. The chip is slightly amber in color and a little flexible.

I don't think silicone sealant will be stroing enough, but am afraid
to use something like epoxy, because it looks like a plumber might
need to pop them off for repair work.

Can someone tell me what the right glue is?

Not exactly the same, but similar situation. I used a dab of Gorilla
glue figuring I can break it off if/when necessary. I agree, I would
not use epoxy.


contact cement;a small dab,not to cover the whole contact surface.
you can buy small bottles of contact cement,or big cans.


After rummaging around in the garage, I found 4 tubes/bottles of
various adhesives.

1. GE Premium Silicone Glue. I think I bought this 4-5 years ago to
fill some cracks around a window air conditioner. My only concern
about this is whether it is strong enough. It should be OK. The little
cap won't get much stress.


I know GE silicone sealant. This may be the same thing or similar.
Is it like toothpaste but with more body, like jelly but stickier? If
so, if it smells like ammonia, or maybe I mean vinegar, it's no good
anymore and will never "dry", turn into the glued state.

2. Gorilla Glue. I found an unopened bottle. I think it's about 2-3
years old. My concern about this is that it's too strong. A plumber
might have to break the cap if it ever needs to be removed.


Is this a polyurethane glue? I asked about a non-gorilla
polyurethane glue here 3 weeks ago, and later found a bottle I'd
already bought, two product names ago (the name I originally wanted),
over 3 years iirc, and it had hardened without ever being opened. See
if you can squeeze the bottle.

3. DAP Weldwood Contact Cement. I found a small bottle that is about
80% empty. I had to pry the lid off. The glue inside is very thick
(like peanut butter).


Not a good sign. Can you actually scoop some out like peanut butter,
or doesn't it hold on and pull the scooped part back into the bottle.

It's probably at least 6-8 years old. Is it
still good? I can go get anothger bottle if this is the right glue.

4. Amazing Goop Plumbing.

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/ag_adhesives.htm


I don't know this one but if it has exceptional strength and bonds
forever, you don't want it for this job.

I didn't know I had this tube. The tube is opened, but almost full.
It's got to be several years old as I don't remember buying it. The
glue looks a little like silicone sealer, but clearer (not milky). It
smells like the glue that I remember from putting together model
airplanes as a kid. The carton says it's permament, so I'm thinking
it's too strong for this repair.



Any comments? I'm inclined to use the silicone sealer.


Number one, that you called Glue at the top? Yes, that sounds like
the best of what you have, if it doesn't smell like ammonia. If it
does, it will look pretty much the same coming out of the tube, but
will always be jelly.


The cap seems to be solidly in place using the silicone sealer.
Thanks.