On Jan 31, 10:58*am, mm wrote:
Thanks, Vic. * I do have a level, but it's always looked so level I
never checked. *This week it's been under 6 inches of snow so I can't
check now.

On Mon, 31 Jan 2011 00:41:21 -0800 (PST), wrote:
On Jan 30, 7:51 pm, mm wrote:

So there is little or no down-side to screwing it down? If there is
no reason not to do it, I think I will put one or two screws in.
Otherwise I'll feel stupid when the next one moves too.

I've seen install instructions for securing them where required for
hurricane protection. *

Great. *No hurricanes here but I'll do something to keep it from
moving.





I never paid any attention to exactly how
though, but since it's apparently required by code in some areas
and installations, you would think they would all have a means of
doing so.
....
4) It also says in the url above:

["If the uncased coil is to be installed on top of a gas furnace,
allow enough space between the top to the furnace and the
bottom of the plastic coil drain pan to have a free flow of air.]

"A minimum of 2.0" distance from the top of the furnace and
the bottom of the coil pan is required. The coil should be installed
with the line set and drain openings to the front of the
furnace."

Does this bit aobut the openings refer only to gas?

That's the letter of what they wrote.

I don't think so.
For oil, is it necessary to have the openings at the front, and why?

Unless it says otherwise, it sounds like it only applies to gas. *Oil
furnaces may have different air flow or design characteristics so
that it doesn't matter. * But who knows.... *You could call the
manufacturer, but most of them won't answer install questions
from DIY. *If you buy an encased coil, this no longer matters.

Well, I'll try, and I'll make a greater effort to see neighbors' new
furnaces.



They're at the side now and work much better there afaic.

I still don;t see the need to try to put it together differently than
the normal installation. *

Maybe this is why I'm still single. *Maybe an objective opinion would
be that I'm increcredibly picky, but it always seems reasonable to me.
* :=)





If you have a serious clearance problem
then it's one thing. *But all I'm hearing so far is the furnace vent
and AC condensate drain lines. *Every furnace has those issues
and they appear to be designed to go together easily, with
clearance, etc as built, with the AC lines coming off the front.

My old coils came out the side too. New ones with the coils already
encased come out the front, at least in the ones I've seen. That

Do you think that means there is room from a bigger coil that way? I
noticed that the coils they have for sale come with adapter plates, to
seal the outer perimeter at the bottom in case the coil case is wider
than the furnace. Not pretty but maybe I could use that to point the
openings sideways

What you're describing is a transition kit, or adaptor if you will,
for use
when you use an encased coil that is larger than the furnace. *They
are
used in cases where you need more AC than heat. *You could probably

Good to know.

use a similar scheme to allow you to mount it rotated 90 deg. *But be
aware that there are restrictions on how gradually you have to taper
the transition so as to maintain smooth airflow. *Depending on your
height limitations, that could be a problem.

Height is a problem. *That's a big reason why I can only install the
smallest simplest non-electric humidifier. *

There is an I-beam over part of the furnace that requires a shift
several inches to the right as the duct goes up. *That piece starts
about 10 inches above the coil.

Then I don't see the problem with mounting a humidifier on the coil
box.... The box alone is a lot larger than typical humidifiers.
And
you usually can mount it starting a few inches above the bottom, no?
All you need is room to be able to make the cut in the sheet metal
without hitting the evaporator coils and to know what's located near
where your're cutting. By cutting it before install, you'll know
exactly.