On Jan 30, 11:17*am, mm wrote:
1) My next door neighbor had a new AC put in and they replaced the
cement pad the condenser sat on with a plastic one. Is there any point
to removing the cement one if it's in one piece? * * * *
* * Later I saw a picture of the underside of a plastic pads and
except for some ribs, it's hollow and has no bottom. *Doesn't that
mean it will slowly sink into the ground and isn't that bad?
Interesting point. The ribs as I recall are spaced continuosly about
3" apart, forming a checkerboard pattern on the bottom. How easy
that can sink into the soil, I don't know for sure, but it seems
possible
if the soil is loose enough. But, sinkage of pads has been a problem
forever, even with a 2" poured concrete one. If you want to really
solve it once and for all and you expect to live there a long time,
I'd
consider getting a couple of small sona tubes, dig footers with a
post hole digger, fill with concrete and then set the plastic base
on those.
* * My own AC condenser unit over the last 31 years has moved 6 or 8
inches to the right, until it hangs off the edge the pad. *Was there
any way to stop that in the first place? *Screw it to the pad? *Later
on? *I was afraid of causing a leak if I pushed it back.
I know in some hurricane prone parts they recommend screwing AC
units down, but I think that is more for very exposed units. IF the
base
stays level, it shouldn't go anywhere. And if the base doesn't, then
it's still going to have potential problems, ie sinking, tilting,
whether
screwed down or not.
2) When using a gravity feed condensate drain line, Goodman wants a
trap in the line. I don't have one now. * Is this to seal heated air
in the furnace and supply ducts when in heating mode. *Or to keep
outside air out?
I would guess that it's to keep the pressurized, conditioned air in.
3) Do people really use a secondary drain pan in case the first drain
plugs up? *Or is it just a secondary drain from the same pan? *If a
pan, where do they put this pan? *(I read that it is required by code
some places.)http://www.alpinehomeair.com/related...%20Install.pdf
I thhink there are 2 seperate things here. A pan can and should be
put
under the whole furnace or AC handler to catch leaking water if the
unit
is anywhere that it will cause damage, eg in an attic.
The secondary drain from the coils is one that is slightly higher than
the
first and is used to route water in case the first one gets clogged.
If
you use the pan under the furnace, you can run the second drain to it.
That's ideal because it's supposed to be routed somewhere where
you will eventually see it, realize it's a problem, and fix it.
Putting one
of those $10 alarms in the pan is a good idea too.
4) It also says in the url above:
["If the uncased coil is to be installed on top of a gas furnace,
allow enough space between the top to the furnace and the
bottom of the plastic coil drain pan to have a free flow of air.]
"A minimum of 2.0" distance from the top of the furnace and
the bottom of the coil pan is required. *The coil should be installed
with the line set and drain openings to the front of the
furnace."
Does this bit aobut the openings refer only to gas? *I don't think so.
For oil, is it necessary to have the openings at the front, and why?
They're at the side now and work much better there afaic.
My old coils came out the side too. New ones with the coils already
encased come out the front, at least in the ones I've seen. That
means
the two choices are with the lines coming out the front or turn it
around
and they come out the back. Of those choices, the most logical in
most cases is to have them come out front.
In the
front, the flue will be in the way of the condensate drain pipe and in
the way if I want to take off the cover and look inside or clean the
evaporator area. * But my neighbor with the new furnace/ac has them at
the front (with no access door iirc, and her house is the mirror image
of mine, so the plastic condensate pipe goes the other direction and
doesn't need to pass the hot flue).
The Rheem one I have that is cased I don't think is meant to be taken
apart either. Even if you could take a cover off say one side, the
stuff
is packed in there so tight now with an N coil that I don't think you
have
clearance to be able to clean. Better get a decent filter and keep
dirt
out.
You should be able to route the condensate line without hitting the
flue.
Why not get a 90%+ and then you only have some 2" PVC to worry
about, not to mention the higher efficiency.
Thanks a lot.
5) A cased evaporator is listed as having a "High-quality post-paint
cabinet". *What does post-paint mean? * Googling didn't help.
No clue there. But in most cases, cased is the way to go. It also
takes
care of the spacing reqt between coil drain and furnace, etc. You
just
sit it on top of the furnace and you're done.