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The Natural Philosopher[_2_] The Natural Philosopher[_2_] is offline
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Default Brick wall specification

Osprey wrote:
On Jan 29, 10:30 pm, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
A friend is looking to get a garden wall built. It will be brick,
2m high, about 5m long. It will join a larger garden brick wall at
one end, and the other end will just come to a stop (meets flimsy
fence panels which are already falling over).

Having done some brick laying, I've been asked what sort of spec
is needed, so they can quiz the bricklayer and see if he says
something similar, or if he hasn't got a clue what he's doing.
Unfortunately, my friend has a history of using tradesmen who
haven't got a clue what they're doing, even though they came
highly recommended.

However, this spec wall is well beyond anything I've designed, so
I'm hoping for some guidance here.

I'm guessing it could be a half brick wall (or possibly not),
a one brick wall, or a one-and-a-half brick wall.
What sort of size/spacing of piers would be required in each case?
Also what sort of size foundations?
I presume there are some rules of thumb, or even standard tables
available to give some guidance here?

I have in mind to ask about the brick spec (I know about frost
resistance and absorbancy ratings), and capping.

Also, how long would it take to build such a wall (one person),
and any rough idea on price (London)?

Thanks.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]


English garden wall bod ( 2 bricks thick)
Frost resistant brick
Laid frog up ... fully filled
Flush / struck pointed
4:1 mix OPC & sand (add lime if you feel so inclined)
Correct ratio of Plasticiser in water
Pillar at each end fully bonded to wall 325x 325
One central pillar showing on rear face only, fully bonded into raer
course ... need only be 2/3rd hieght of wall.

Q's to consider ?
Is it holding anything back ... i.e. retaining earth or just free
standing ?
Can it be fully bonded into the wall it abuts ? ...

Needs waterproof coping, or as a minimum soldier course of bricks.

+1
I'd recommend also using ties everywhere between front/back courses
unless you cross bond it, also ties into any pillars. Its not so easy to
bind into pillars IME, but I am a rank amateur so YMMV. Top with edge
laid bricks and they must be hard bricks..as must any damp north facing
areas. Frost damage is severe on unheated brick..

Foundations need not be huge. scrape and level a couple of courses below
ground and either use strip foundations or simply lay concrete blocks on
their side on strong mortar/concrete bed.