On Jan 9, 10:18*pm, " wrote:
We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.

Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5423000...07/5341718398/

Thanks

Nowhere that this kind of outlet is used is it legal for a non-
electrician to replace outlets or plugs in an office or workplace.
Have an electrician come in and replace both.

If you don't believe me, ask your insurance agent. Better him than the
adjuster who comes in after something burns down.

I presume the reason you -- er, "someone" -- put an aftermarket plug
on the cord is because the equipment came with a 30A plug, probably a
twistlock. You may think that you've loaded it lightly enough that it
won't draw more than 15A, but you may be wrong. Have the sparky quote
on a proper 30A circuit installation while he's there.

If you do put it all back together in a 15A config, get yourself a
Kill-A-Watt or other current monitor and find out what you're really
drawing. If it's more than 12A continuous, you should not be on a 15A
circuit. Some offices are wired all 12-gauge even on 15A circuits; if
that's the case, depending on length and local regs, your electrician
may be able to swap in a 20A breaker and T-slot receptacle.

Chip C
Toronto