The tool for sub-D terminals is available at those Shack stores, if the
store still stocks much in the way of parts.

The red color is the same for aviation terminal tools for the same size of
terminals, easy to remember if one is familiar with electronic
component/resistor color coding.. red (2) is for size 20 terminals.

As mentioned in an earlier thread, there are two different terminal types
(and connector bodies) for sub-D connectors.. stamped-sheet brass formed
into the shape of mating M/F terminals, which have the dual flag tabs, and
the other type is the machined-from round stock into the mating M/F
terminals (much more expensive terminals and crimper).

The formed brass sheet type terminals are common commercial-quality
terminals, found in many D-type computer cables (but also many other
applications).
These terminals are cheap to produce, and easily implemented with the proper
industrial assembly machines.

The machined type terminals are high-reliability types, which are far less
common in consumer goods.

Both of these types of terminals are extremely labor intensive and very
costly, compared to soldering.
Soldering is permanent and prone to less fabrication-related failures than
crimping, whether one is familiar with crimping or not (assuming that one is
capable of learning how to solder properly).

The vibration aspect keeps getting mentioned, and is definitely not much of
a significant issue with home shop machines.
If the sub-D cable connector is installed with a connector shell, then the
soldered connection is already essentially immune to vibration issues, as
the shell will dampen cable vibration.
If various cables are so loosely installed that they're free to shake (or be
pulled on), then any failures are a result of poor installation..
free-hanging connections swinging in the wind are destined to fail anyway.

The fact that military/aviation connectors are fabricated with methods to
guard against failures is obvious.
Home shop machines will not drop out of the sky if a connection fails.
Rarely will injury or deaths occur if communications are lost between a
control and a motion device (troops and intel analogy).

Looking at the conditions that exist under the hood of a car, compared to a
stationary machine in a workshop, there are few similarities.
Yet, many connections in engine compartments aren't high-reliability, or
environmentally sealed connections.. and they generally hold up for many
years/decades.
Many home shop machines will may even be modified/upgraded or sold within a
couple of years.

I understand the practicality and efficiency of doing something well, and
this is often the primary issue with most things I do.
Aerospace certified connections on a mill or other shop machine aren't
practical from any perspective.

Most RCMers will make electrical/signal connections better than taping
twisted wires, and there are countless interconnection products commonly
available (many more than in previous decades), but carrying simple wire
connections into the area of industrial machine manufacturing isn't
practical.
No one here is attempting to build more reliable machines than Bridgeport or
Boeing, for the sake of building a reputation of a company manufacturing
highly reliable machines.

In most cases, soldered and insulated (shrinktubed) connections, properly
secured to a stationary surface, are just as reliable as any connector of
any cost.. practical, inexpensive, easy and effective.. wire markers
optional.
When the wiring requires changes, cut and repeat.. caution for any
tighter-than-a-frog's-ass types, this requires wasting a few inches of
solder and a small amount of shrinktubing.

When circuits need interconnection devices, and many don't, solder the wires
to the connector contacts (install connector shell or insulate well), and
secure the cables nearby.. the results are more reliable than many engine
compartment connections.

Many times, the situation is matching a connector to an existing connector
(low voltage signal connections). If the existing connector doesn't need to
be disconnected regularly, then soldering wires to the device eliminates the
need for the connector. To disconnect, apply heat, remove.
This will work fine if the device is your own stuff, doesn't affect warranty
issues, resale value, or safety issues.

--
WB
..........


"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...

I'm having trouble finding it too -- Mouser, Digi-Key, and
Newark. All the search strings seem to fail.

Here is an eBay auction for a Radio Shack version in the UK:

# 130458979630

Note that normally the two halves (red and white) are snapped
together. And this one looks a little shorter than the AMP one.
(Beware, in your searches in the catalogs, the name AMP has been
replaced with Tyco or Tyco Electronics. (They apparently absorbed AMP
some time ago.)

Newark -- a sample pin: 90F3568

Their insertion/extraction tool -- which looks different from
what I have: 90F1401

O.K. This takes you to a catalog page with their insertion
tool, their crimper, shells, and pins:

http://www.newark.com/jsp/content/printCatalog.jsp?display=single&cat=catalog128&pag e=861


I have a little file where I write stuff down that is project related,
so I will write down digikey part numbers for pins and connectors.

Well -- above you have the link for them in Newark. It will
give you a starting point, including the manufacturer's part numbers.

BTW I have two nice AMP crimpers for their 0.1" and 0.2" connectors.

Great! They do make really nice tools

Enjoy,
DoN.

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