Eric, If you would, let me know if you build the Miter Saw Station. I
love the space saving feature of this stand. I would be interested in
any problems you run into.


On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 17:37:48 GMT, "Eric Scantlebury"
wrote:

Hello,

Let me first start by saying that I am by best accounts a novice woodworker
who has decided to take my ability to do DIY projects around the house
(molding, thresholds, etc) to the "next" level. I have decided that I want
to try to build the Miter Saw Stand featured in Popular Woodworking for my
Dewault 703. Here is the link to the plans:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/fe...ea.asp?id=1021

In that plan the carcass is assembled by butting the end of a board into a
rabbit and held with glue and screws. Seems simple enough. However, I
just finished reading an article about locking Miter Joints in the February
issue of Popular Woodworking and now I'm leaning towards using that method
to assemble the cabinet carcass (top, bottom, sides and back). With that in
mind I have a few questions.

1. Is there a strength difference between the two types of joint? And if
so which is the stronger joint? It would seem to me that the miter joint
would be stronger than the butt end joint.

2. If it is feasible to substitute the Miter joint - is it possible to
miter the back in the same manner? In other words creating a "square"
cabinet seems simple enough but what about attaching the back using the same
method. Is this possible? If so is their any special considerations when
routing the panels at the intersection of the "corners" of the carcass
where, say, a top meets a side and the back? If that description makes any
sense at all.

3. If all is well with this method - is it possible to run that type of
bit effectively in a PC690 using the PC router stand and still get good
results? Or does a bit like that need a heftier router?

Thanks for any input and answers.

Eric