"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
"Steve Lusardi" wrote in message
...
Bob,
I assume you bought a used Chinese Mill/Drill. They normally have at MT3
Quill taper or some of the newer ones have an R8 spindle. I assume you
have the MT3 variety. In Europe the tool for these machines use am M10
thread. In the US those tools use a 3/8-16 UNC thread. The purpose of the
drawbar is to prevent any helix in the cutter from pulling the tool
holder out of the quill. I too had to make a draw bar. It is no problem
to do. I used a 3/8 rod. threaded one end and pinned a piece of 3/4 hex
stock drilled for the rod on the other end. Be sure to use two pins, not
just one. Tighten lightly or you will shear the pins. It just needs to be
snug. those mill drills are incredibly handy. I wouldn't be without one,
but like everything else from China, there are good ones and bad ones.
Steve

Thanks Steve,

Its actually an MT2. I got an MT2 - ER25 collet chuck for it. The draw
bar that came with the machine does not fit my collet chuck so I assumed
it was metric. All the other screws on my other Chinese tools were
metric. I guess I better go double check my collet chuck before I make a
draw bar for it that doesn't fit. LOL.

I don't understand the hex and pins bit. I figured I would just take a
piece of 1/4 rod and thread both ends. Then thread a 1/4 x 3/8 bushing on
one end, and thread a hand knob on the other end. Use red Loctite and a
butted tight shoulder on the bushing to keep it from coming off. The mill
does not have a motor reversing circuit.

P.S. While not an Iggy or Gunner class score I paid less for the mill than
I did for the collet chuck. I hope it was worth it. LOL.