chaniarts wrote:
Bill wrote:
chaniarts wrote:
Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:

What is the purpose of the furring strips, Bill? Electronic
ballasts don't get hot, the ceiling is flat, and the fixtures are
flat. Butt 'em and forget 'em.

Temperature of attached garage varies between about 25F and 110F,
and humidity varies too. I know most expansion/contraction occurs
between the annular rings, but some also occurs along the grain
too. Shouldn't one leave space for it? Assume 6' to 8' std
onebyfour lumber. This looks like something I should be able to
look up in a table (maybe someone has a link handy).

Bill

no. the drywall won't be moving. even if they did, what do you
expect to occur? they fixtures will give a little because the screws
holding them to the ceiling won't fill the holes completely.



Not talking about the drywall moving, rather the "furring strips" that
the lights are mounted to. Larry suggested mounting the 1by4s to the
studs end-to-end. It was suggested to mount these from wall-to-wall. I
was concerning that the ends could lift each other due to the
expansion of the wood. I've seen wooden molding "bow", which I assume
is related to such expansion. I've just a humble beginner: Birds
know more about trees than I do... : )

Bill

screw the lights directly through the drywall into the joists. i find joists
using magnets; i have a lot of 1/4"x1/16" supermagnets. put one over each
screwhead that's holding the drywall to the stud gives you a good line on
where to place the screws.

I bought a $5 studfinder the other day, but I have some "supermagnets"
too and I think they will be helpful. Thanks for the suggestion.