On Dec 7, 4:54*pm, RBnDFW wrote:
On 12/5/2010 3:29 PM, Ned Simmons wrote:





On Sun, 5 Dec 2010 12:04:25 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
*wrote:

*wrote in message
...
On 12/4/2010 7:59 AM, RBnDFW wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt
compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he
couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure
enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area
adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't
think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and
there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld.
Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever
diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.

thanks for all the good input.

Despite the duct tape jokes, I think I'm going
to try JB weld first. No sense adding heat if I
don't need to.
* *I intend to remove that *big plug in the
bottom first. that will let me inspect the area
with an inspection mirror. If it looks clean
I'll rough it up and use some JB putty on the
inside. Then invert the tank and apply JB Weld
on the outside.

I suspect that should work fine for a long time.
If not, I'll take it to my welder friend.

removing the plug is a big "if". It's about 2.5"
across the flats, maybe bigger. The flats are
narrow, so it would be hard to grip with a
wrench or pipe wrench. I do not have a socket
that big. If i can't get it off, welding/brazing
may move to the top.

This is exactly the reason I hate jbweld so much.
Guys like you
smear it all over the place pushing it into tight
spots that are
hard to clean out and then when it fails, as it
will, you bring it
to a weldor to repair. That stuff produces the
most obnoxious
toxic fumes you'll ever come across! You're only
going to ****
off the welder you bring it to. Don't use jb, weld
it now and be
done with it!!!!!!

If the leak is in fact weld porosity, wicking grade Loctite 290 is a
more appropriate noxious goo. See p.12 of this doc:
www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT4680.pdf

Well that is interesting. I had no idea it would be good with pressure.
I went with JB Weld. It was the only good no-heat choice. If it doesn't
work, I haven't made it any worse.
Hit it with a grinder to remove the paint, and give the surface some
tooth. *I inverted the compressor to make the holed area almost horizontal.
Used the slow-cure original JBW product. Spread some on, then stuck a
small metal disc (actually a magnet) over the hole, then piled on more
JBW over an area the size of a quarter. Left it to cure for several
days. I'll set it up, give the oil time to drain back down, then start
it up and see if it holds.

If not, *it's off to the welder.

Results in a new days.
Thanks for all the input.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You do realize that if someone is injured by this pressure vessel, you
are now finacially liable.

TMT