You'll likely have a difficult time trying to remove the big hex bushings
from factory-assembled air compressor tanks.
If you see orange sealer used on the threads, that stuff won't just release
with the limited amount of torque that you can apply.

When I couldn't get one of the large hex bushings to break free with a 3/4"
drive breaker bar and socket, with a cheater pipe and a helper, I decided to
cut the bushing out.
BTW, this was after the bushing had been heated, soaked with ATF/lacquer
thinner, naptha, brake fluid and maybe a couple of other solvents.

I used a saber saw with a coarse blade to cut parallel, not radial slits
from the center hole (tank drain valve) outward, while being careful not to
nick the threads of the tank adapter flange.

After four cuts, two parallel-opposed sections could be pried out of the
hole, allowing the semi-circles to be tapped loose with a chisel.

You would be further ahead to have the leak brazed, IMO, which should last
more than one lifetime, if the tank doesn't rust out elsewhere first.

Drilling and jamming something into the hole might risk causing the adapter
flange to break.

Miracle cures in a tube etc, are far less likely to make a permanent repair.

--
WB
..........


"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area adjacent to the large drain bung
at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld. Anyway, I'd like to fix
it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.