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Ned Simmons Ned Simmons is offline
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Default compressor tank repair

On Sun, 5 Dec 2010 12:04:25 -0500, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"RBnDFW" wrote in message
...
On 12/4/2010 7:59 AM, RBnDFW wrote:
OK, so I got a deal - Like new 60-gallon Kobalt
compressor for $125 on CL.
He said it had a hole in the tank, but he
couldn't find it.

So I got it home powered it up, and sure
enough, there's a hole in the
bottom It's about 1/16", in the weld area
adjacent to the large drain
bung at the very bottom.
Now, this thing looks brand new. I really don't
think it's rust
perforation. the paint wasn't bubbled, and
there is no rust at the edges
of the hole. i think it was just a porous weld.
Anyway, I'd like to fix it.

Here's what I'm thinking: Drill out to whatever
diameter gives good
thickness.
Tap it, and screw in a bolt.
Then either braze or silver solder

Better suggestions welcome.



thanks for all the good input.

Despite the duct tape jokes, I think I'm going
to try JB weld first. No sense adding heat if I
don't need to.
I intend to remove that big plug in the
bottom first. that will let me inspect the area
with an inspection mirror. If it looks clean
I'll rough it up and use some JB putty on the
inside. Then invert the tank and apply JB Weld
on the outside.

I suspect that should work fine for a long time.
If not, I'll take it to my welder friend.

removing the plug is a big "if". It's about 2.5"
across the flats, maybe bigger. The flats are
narrow, so it would be hard to grip with a
wrench or pipe wrench. I do not have a socket
that big. If i can't get it off, welding/brazing
may move to the top.


This is exactly the reason I hate jbweld so much.
Guys like you
smear it all over the place pushing it into tight
spots that are
hard to clean out and then when it fails, as it
will, you bring it
to a weldor to repair. That stuff produces the
most obnoxious
toxic fumes you'll ever come across! You're only
going to ****
off the welder you bring it to. Don't use jb, weld
it now and be
done with it!!!!!!


If the leak is in fact weld porosity, wicking grade Loctite 290 is a
more appropriate noxious goo. See p.12 of this doc:
www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/LT4680.pdf


I'll say the same thing for brakeclean in the
spray can. If you
can smell the fumes when you are welding, STOP!
Clear the
air and get rid of the fumes. I've been in shops
where it was
being used twenty feet away and it was still a
problem. The UV
rays from the weld arc have an affect on the fumes
producing
a poisonous gas that you don't want to be around.
Think, be
careful out there, eih? phil k.


That reminds me of when I had a shop near the fish wharves in Bass
Harbor ME. I'd cringe whenever the bait hauler from the Swan's Island
lobster co-op would walk in looking to have some welding done on his
aluminum bodied bait truck. Burning fish gurry is not as dangerous
phosgene, but it undoubtedly smells worse.

--
Ned Simmons