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Wild_Bill Wild_Bill is offline
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Default hot water heat leak

The realistic simplicity of the job also occurred to me, but as I've
mentioned before, particularly about Karl and a few others that have been
around in RCM for a while.. they always try to make the job seem harder than
it could possibly be.

Drama.

I'll be glad to eat my words and sincerely apologize, when/if I saw pictures
of an installation that show that it requires "tearing out a bunch of sheet
rock walls" to fix a single leak.

--
WB
..........


"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Karl Townsend wrote:

On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 12:00:23 -0800 (PST), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Nov 19, 5:12 am, Karl Townsend
wrote:
I've got a pin hole leak in a copper pipe on my hot water heat sytem.

Murphy is my partner. So, of course, the leak is right where the pipe
goes through the floor and you can't get at it. A proper repair is
going to mean removing the radiator above, cutting out a whole section
of pipe and replacing.

To avoid this job, does anyone suggest some sort of goo to just apply
to the surface of the pipe? Other easy fix?

Karl

What is the floor material? The reason I ask is that you may not have
the situation others have referred to where the pipe is rotting from
the inside. I had a pipe in my house develop pinholes where it passed
through a tile/cement wall. The pipe was eaten from the outside.

can JB Weld do this fix? I've never tried it.


I found a pipe repair epoxy tape in McMaster Carr. I'll try that,
when, not if, it fails I'll call in a pro. This is the worst possible
spot. There's fifty feet of baseboard radiator all around the north
end of the house. The bad spot is right at floor level going up to
where the radiator starts. I can see no way to move the radiator
without tearing out a bunch of sheet rock walls.


I can't imagine what type of baseboard you have that would require
tearing up walls to move. The normal copper tube with pressed on
aluminum fin baseboard radiators lift right out of the hanger brackets
that are attached to the back plate which is attached to the wall. You
simply need to cut off the pipe an inch above the elbow *below* the
floor and then you can lift the end of the baseboard up to easily cut or
desolder the bad section from the end of the radiator, solder on new
pipe there, lower it through the floor, cut to correct length and solder
it back together below the floor with a coupling. It's really easy.