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Pete C. Pete C. is offline
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Default hot water heat leak


Karl Townsend wrote:

On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 22:58:54 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 18:10:33 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


wrote:

On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 09:46:15 -0600, "Pete C."
wrote:


wrote:

Lead free is not required on non-potable water - and lead solder is a
LOT easier to work with in this application.

You won't find lead solder at the big box stores, and in my experience
the lead-free solder works equally well on potable water copper pipes or
hydronic heating copper pipes.
Or equally poorly.

I guess if you're still trying to use Propane or are just bad at
soldering plumbing. I use MAPP and have never had any problem with the
lead-free solder or lead-free flux paste, and I've replumbed entire
houses.

I use map or air/acet torches and still prefer leaded solder. The
newer lead-free stuff IS better than the earlier stuff. A lot likely
has to do with the newer flux.


I didn't think you could still get leaded solder. Where do you buy it?
Preferably online so I can order some to have on hand


It's better to learn to use the solder that you will be able to get the
next time you need it, and particularly so you don't end up using the
lead solder the next time you have a potable water plumbing fix to do.
The Lead free solder works fine, I've used it numerous times for more
than 20 years without any problems.