Bay Area Dave wrote in message . com...
perhaps you meant "conversion varnish"? It's available at Sherwin
Williams, for one. But don't buy it unless you like working with
hazardous materials. It's got some real nasty chemicals in it.

Instead, IF you have any HVLP you can get good results with Enduro water
borne lacquer or poly. You have to order it via 1-800 or look up
Compliant Spray Systems. You can also get a catalyzer that makes the
finish more durable, which could be added when spraying the top. As a
matter of fact they suggest that you only add the cat. to the final
coat. I bought some cat. but haven't needed to use it yet. The poly
goes on beautifully with HVLP. Dries fast. Must be sanded between
coats for adhesion according to the mfg. I haven't taken any chances
and recoated without sanding...

dave

Brian Turner wrote:
I am kind of new to woodworking and am building furniture for our
family room. I am building a TV stand and end tables out of red oak.
I am very close to Amish country in Ohio and found out that they use
catalytic varnish for the top coat finish. I can't seem to find
catalytic varnish sold in local woodworking stores as it seems to be a
commercial product. Can anyone tell me a comparable finish to use for
the DIY wood worker or a source for catalytic varnish? Since the
tables are being used in the family room they need to be resistant to
water and other liquids when setting or spilling glasses or cups of
beverages on the tables. Thanks in advance for your help.


You could use Bartley's Gel Varnish. I've had very good luck with it
on dining room tables including my own. It is easy to apply and does
not raise the grain so requires very little, if any, sanding between
coats. I normally sand the surface to 400 grit and then apply the
first coat. After that I do a lite touch between each coat with 600
grit. I suggest a minimum of four coats and even six in high use
areas.

Bill Benitez

http://woodworkdoctor.com