In article ,
James Waldby wrote:

On Fri, 05 Nov 2010 06:49:29 -0500, Karl Townsend wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:
DoN wrote:
...
Some possibilities above -- depending on which style of crimp
you need.

DoN, I've only got four pins to connect so the ribbon option is out.
This is a one time job so I don't want to spend a fortune. I'd like to
buy the tool on eBay, if you wouldn't mind pointing out the correct
tool.
...
DoN, I've been surfing for crimp tool and found this:
http://www.dataaccessories.com/dsub.html

The pins sure look like a molex type to me on the page. Anyway, I'll pop
for $50 if this solves my little problem.

The T3002 D-Sub Crimp Tool (last item at that link) probably is what
DoN referred to as a "scissors type" crimp tool. IIRC, he suggested
it won't work well in comparison with Daniels or AMP crimpers when
they are used with correct pins. (Daniels are in several current
ebay auctions, eg 150511878340 and 190461084132.)

Anyhow, to the point. I have a crimp tool like T3002 and male and
female pins like are sold at the link, plus DB9 and DB25 shells for
same and have had bad luck with them. For example, loose wires in
crimp, pins not retained in shell, bent pins.

For the few cables and low pin-counts you've mentioned, try solder
cup connectors. Sacrifice half a dozen connectors for soldering
practice -- eg make up several short gender changers and jumpers or
test sets. Slide inch-long pieces of 1/10" heat shrink tubing onto
each wire before connecting it, and some 1/4" over all the wires,
also before connecting. See links below for details.

What gauge are the wires? How long is each of them? Do you
need to terminate the wires in place, or can you string a
pre-constructed cable? Do you know what kind of signal the
wires carry? (Eg, servo voltage or current, switch closures,
pulse train, serial RS232/422/488)

Links about soldering cable connectors -- containing both good
and bad advice --
http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/xlr_cable.html
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geeks...ering-tips.htm
l
http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/s...dering-xlr.htm
l

The classic solution to soldering connector pins in place, where access
to inner pins is difficult, is resistance soldering. The "iron" looks
like a big tweezer. Clamp the solder cup, press the foot switch, feed
the solder by hand. The tweezer passes a large current through the cup,
heating it. The tweezer itself does not get hot, so adjacent wires are
not melted.

Here is an example:
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7090010.


Joe Gwinn