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Tim Watts Tim Watts is offline
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Default How to do professional grout

On 02/11/10 15:15, Tabby wrote:
On Nov 2, 2:28 pm, Edex@directory wrote:
OK, I got the tiles (25mm x 40mm) with 5mm gap up on the kitchen wall
above the work surface.

Next stage is to do the grouting.

Do I need special tool for that or can I just make up grout mix and poke
it into gaps with my finger and smooth off with, say, a pencil? With
such large tiles , it doesn't seem to be need for a grout float?


Use a rubber edged grout spreader. Theyre only £1 or 2. Slop the grout
onto the tiles and run the spreader all voer to get the grout into the
gaps. Go over it repeatedly to push it in well. Wipe grout off the
surface by moving the spreader at 45 degs to the gaps, this leaves
nice concave grout.


Yep - you can get a fairly rapid rate of fill that way. And a decent
(but not expensive) rubber "float" can take 95% of the excess off the
surface making cleanup easier (see below).


Do I fill the horizontals first or the verticals? Or does it not make no
difference?


theres no distinguishing, just slop it over everything.


That's how I did it - do a m2 at a time or so and keep an eye that it is
going well (ie no missing bits).

Then after 1-2m2 depending on your speed and the grout type (I'm basing
this off mix it yourself Mapei Keracolor) it will be firm enough, but
not too hard to sponge off.

Now take a bucket of fresh water and a nice big cuboid tiler's sponge,
wipe gently with a slightly wet but not dripping sponge *on the flat*
(ie not at an angle) and using several passes and rinses leave the tile
face clean ish (no lumps, but haze is fine). Depending how long you do
this or how wide your joints are, you can control how much you recess
the grout line.

Leave the haze - it dry polishes off later.

Note - this is for regular grout - epoxy would be a different kettle of
fish (I expect).


I am minded to fill internal corner joints with silicone instead of
grout. Is that the recommended way?


For walls that are solidly coupled (ie brick wall to brick wall), I
grouted mine - but I did add some additive to my grout that imparts
slight flexible properties (Mapei Fugolastic).

That was for a shower/bath so actually much less critical for you - use
grout as you go.

But if the walls were stud-walls (any covering) or wall to
wood/metal/plastic I would use silicone as stuff just moves more readily.

I also siliconed my wall-floor joint.

Also, fill the joint between work surface and bottom row of tiles with
silicone bead? Is that good/bad?


Silicone is good. Grout will usually crack here and it is the one place
you will have occasional standing water.

Ed


Silicone is flexible but not so hard wearing.


The trick is to engineer a decent gap (3-4mm or so wide) and clear it of
grout so you can pump in a decent bead of silicon right in to the depth
of the tiles. Applying a quadrant of silicon across the surface of the
tiles and worktop is pretty much guaranteed to fail in short order.

HTH

Tim


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Tim Watts