Lobby Dosser wrote on 27/10/2010 00:50:
"graham" wrote in message
...
Many months ago I got lots of helpful advice on this group for building
a router table. Thanks guys.
So to add to the collection, here's what I ended up doing, what worked
for me and what didn't..
snip

Use a different router - I used a Freud FT3000VCE because it was
reasonably priced and had above table height adjustment and cutter
changing. However it also had these problems specific to use in a table:
- the base wasn't flat, or square to the spindle;
- the above table height adjustment involves an access hole in the
insert plate positioned right underneath the fence - not useful. So I
don't actually have above-table height adjustment, grrr;

Why can't you just reposition the router or the fence?

If I turn the router round I can't get at the speed control.
Re. repositioning the fence - the scenario I'm thinking of is when I
need to take a number of consecutive cuts adjusting the cutter after
each but with the fence in the same place.


- the template provided on the Freud website for insert plate fitting
has the holes marked in the wrong places!
- the dust extraction attachment relies on the router's plastic sub-base
being used. As well as not being remotely flat, it also prevents the
collet nut from protruding above the table sufficiently to enable
above-table bit changing.

Had the same dust collection issue with other routers. Problem is not
unique to Freud. BTW, what is your tolerance for "flat"?

Re. flatness. It was a while ago now, but I recall the base/spindle was
out by perhaps 1 degree; the plastic sub-base was more uneven, out by
around 0.5mm in various parts, particularly on one edge where it tapered
further from the straight edge.

g.