I should've been paying more attention when I read the part about you using
the PR57 leakage test.
I wasn't picturing/visualizing that the armor sheaths of the heating
elements could or would be in direct electrical contact with the oven
cabinet. I'd been assuming that insulators were in place to isolate them.

I suspect that if the element were removed and the leakage test was applied
to the element, the meter would confirm internal leakage in the element, and
possibly other leakage paths in one or more of the other elements.

The Sencore Zmeters have leakage tests (up to 1kV), as do numerous other
instruments.

Leakage testing can be utilized for many types of electrical and electronic
devices, from full appliances, motors, and other large components, to
transformers and small semiconductor devices.
Megohm meters and Hi-Pot testing equipment/instruments are typically used
for line voltage operated machines, appliances and power transformers for
safety requirements, but also for troubleshooting.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"David Farber" wrote in message
...

Here's the way I see it. Starting from L1, current flows through the limit
switch then to the thermostat. If the thermostat switch is turned on by
the thermocouple, then the current continues on to the bake element and
then the circuit is completed when it connects to L2, which is where the
neutral line is. I don't see any connection to that and the metal cabinet
parts. So either my analysis is wrong or there is current leaking to
ground.

Just so there is no confusion, from left to right in the schematic, the
original 240V wiring of L1, N, L2 has been changed to 120V wiring of,
Line, Ground, and N. I can remove the bonding strap which connects the
chassis to N in the 240V schematic or Ground in the 120V version that I
came up with. I'd just like to understand what's going on here.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA