tom koehler wrote:
On Thu, 14 Oct 2010 16:23:28 -0500, Kevin Miller wrote
(in message ications):
I did post a couple other shots of it in
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking, as well as some photos of the build
process. Sadly, more and more people are losing newsgroup access.
my NG provider dropped all binary groups
But
if you go to http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/ you can see what's been
posted. DJ Delorie archives what lands there. Click on the week link.
my browser shows a column of pictures and text links, so I click on each
picture and then click on the text links - nice mini-tutorial on segment
work. I really like the tip about the bits of scrap glued in place with CA to
keep the rings lined up while gluing. This will work very nice with my
home-made gluing press. Better than my methods for keeping things from
sliding around. Thanks for the tip.
It's really a bummer that so many ISPs are dropping news. Sure there's
other options but it's a hassle to track them down, etc. Really nice of
DJ to archive the 'goods' though. If you're lurking DJ, thank you very
much - it's appreciated.
The scrap glue block trick is one (of several) that I picked up from Ray
Allen who was an excellent segmented turner. Saw him at the Provo
woodturning symposium in '97. Nice guy and an absolute riot. Well
worth the price of admission.
The bowl is 11.5 across the top, give or take. The scallops are
actually pretty easy. This URL:
http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/117055-1.jpg
shows the feature ring and the one above it. The scallop appears
because you cut on the diagonal. The wood in front (sycamore and
purpleheart) is trimmed from the corner of the segment, exposing the
teak behind it. but in the center of the segment you're not cutting so
much, so that part is left.
I'm gonna have to try this, as the image just ain't coming up, right now -
must be something wrong with my third-eye browser.
Hope that makes sense. If not, just glue up a ring with contrasting
woods, mount it on the lathe and cut the side at an angle. It'll be
obvious when you do.
I hope so. Sometimes I don't do well with 'obvious'. Thank you for the
information.
Crude ASCII art:
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Hope this comes out OK. This is the segment from the side. It's
supposed to be a piece of light wood on the left and dark wood on the
right. The angled line is the cut you make when turning. In the
diagram it shows you going right up to the dark wood. But actually you
would go a little beyond, exposing the dark wood.
When you try it, the light will dawn.
re your results with the tung oil... I picked up a batch of pure tung oil
last year (no drying agents in it), for some bowls that would be used with
food. This stuff took several days to set up, and then it was just
"sorta-kinda" The surface did not seem truly hard until months later. I will
experiment with one of the bowls, with buffing it out with a light abrasive
of some kind, and then another tung oil bath, and then see what it is like a
few months later.
The Minwax Tung Oil Finish is actually a wiping varnish I believe. It
may or may not even actually have Tung Oil in it. Some of the mixes do,
and some don't. Go figure.
Thanks for all the tips.
tom koehler
More than welcome. Mostly just sharing what was given to me from
others. I really can't claim them as my own. But that's what I love
about woodworking - people are so generous to share techniques!
....Kevin
--
Kevin Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb
In a recent poll, seven out of ten hard drives preferred Linux.