On 10/14/2010 11:47 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/10 11:27 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 10/14/2010 11:15 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/10 6:39 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
Another reality check for all the people taking this thread off into the
wild blue yonder is the issue of getting the blade onto the arbor in the
presence of calipers that grip either side of the blade. My interest
(and Mike's as well, I think) in using a bicycle brake was simply a
matter of "how can I retrofit my existing table saw with a simple
convenience brake?" I think the wide-opening jaws of a bicycle brake
(maybe along with some kind of front-side cable disconnect to allow the
calipers to drop out of the way) would allow enough clearance to get the
blade on the arbor without too much trouble.

Heck, I think if it was mounted closer to the arbor than the edge, one
pad on
the arbor side of the blade would be sufficient for a convenience
slow/stop.

That very well could be true, and you could also use such a brake with
dado blades of any thickness... Interesting observation there Mike; I'm
gonna have to go do some peeking inside my Unisaw to see what the
possibilities are. :-)


Good. It's about time that happens to someone *else.*
Let me know what you come up with so I can take credit for it. :-)

Well, peek I did, but it seems the opportunities for mounting such a device, on
the Unisaw at least, are virtually nil. There are just too many clearance
problems to overcome. However, it does seem possible that I could mount a thin
disc to the motor pulley (one that's a couple of inches larger in diameter) and
apply caliper pressure to that instead. The calipers would have to be mounted
to a bracket that attaches to the motor housing, but that shouldn't be too hard
to accomplish.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/