I haven't been watching this - but is there a start capacitor and a run ?
If so - might be a dry cap - replace them with correct values and it might run.
A start cap goes in series with the start winding and for ac, effectively drops
the 'ac resistance' of the winding allowing more current to flow.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
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On 10/7/2010 4:26 PM, Bill Noble wrote:


"Snag" wrote in message ...
Winston wrote:


The wiring/schematics sheet is still with the dryer and it's not that
complicated . Sorry Leon , your solution doesn't fit the symptoms . Somethin'g
shorting both legs to ground at startup , and I can't figger out what it is .
The motor starts to turn , the fuses blow . He's only got 30A fuses on this
thing , but until recently it's run just fine . I haven't yet found the spec'd
fuse rating , but I'm starting to think that 30's were marginal , and as the
dryer has aged and parts worn , the marginal fuse ain't cuttin' it anymore .
Seems to me that most dryers are set up with a 50 amp breaker ... and yet ,
the motor was the only load , I had it on "fluff" with the heater shut off .
Might be the infinite heat control ... I think he's just going to go get a new
unit , this one came with the house and we know nothing of it's history . We
could easily approach the price of a new one throwing parts at this one .

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

step 1 - remove belt from motor, set dryer for air only (no heat), try again,
watch motor carefully - could be a short to ground inside the motor, more likely
a problem with the start circuit. Even better if you could disconnect the
element entirely

If the motor won't start and run with no load and no element, then either there
is a short in the wires to the motor (which you can find by feeling them after
the fuse blows - the problem area will be warm), or there is a failure of the
motor start circuit, or a bad motor. I would probably remove the motor and bench
test it - on most maytags the motor comes out quickly and easily.

If the motor runs with no load, check for undue friction in the drum, if all is
well, with element still off/disconnected, hook belt up and try again

proceed in this manner to isolate the problem