Bill Noble wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message
...
Winston wrote:


The wiring/schematics sheet is still with the dryer and it's not that
complicated . Sorry Leon , your solution doesn't fit the symptoms .
Somethin'g shorting both legs to ground at startup , and I can't
figger out what it is .
The motor starts to turn , the fuses blow . He's only got 30A fuses
on this thing , but until recently it's run just fine . I haven't
yet found the spec'd fuse rating , but I'm starting to think that
30's were marginal , and as the dryer has aged and parts worn , the
marginal fuse ain't cuttin' it anymore . Seems to me that most
dryers are set up with a 50 amp breaker ... and yet , the motor was
the only load , I had it on "fluff" with the heater shut off . Might
be the infinite heat control ... I think he's just going to go get a
new unit , this one came with the house and we know nothing of it's
history . We could easily approach the price of a new one throwing
parts at this one . --
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !

step 1 - remove belt from motor, set dryer for air only (no heat), try
again, watch motor carefully - could be a short to ground inside the
motor, more likely a problem with the start circuit. Even better if
you could disconnect the element entirely


Last test was with the drum removed , the timer on "fluff" (no heat) and
the heat control all the way down . HmmmPOP the motoer starts to turn , the
fuses blow .

If the motor won't start and run with no load and no element, then
either there is a short in the wires to the motor (which you can find
by feeling them after the fuse blows - the problem area will be
warm), or there is a failure of the motor start circuit, or a bad
motor. I would probably remove the motor and bench test it - on
most maytags the motor comes out quickly and easily.

I've inspected the wires , all the way . No insulation breaks , no chafing
.. The motor windings have the proper (approximate) resistance and are not
grounded . And a motor fault would only blow the fuse on that leg ...

If the motor runs with no load, check for undue friction in the drum,
if all is well, with element still off/disconnected, hook belt up and
try again
proceed in this manner to isolate the problem

I'm thinking it's in the controls , some of which are pretty spendy .
Timer is OK , haven't opened the others . Got 'lectronics ...

--
Snag
Learning keeps
you young !