"Sonny" wrote in message
...
Whichever siding you use, I would recommend installing a moisture
barrier. Two rolls of felt won't break you. Also, build it with
walls at least 10' high, i.e., for some attic space. Exterior
sheeting is 8', so put a 2' skirt at the bottom, with a drip edge
between the skirt and the higher full sheet/panel... see pic. If the
bottom ever rots or gets damaged, all you'll have to replace is the
bottom skirt section.... not have to mess with a full sheet/panel. If
applicable, cut the skirt upper and lower edges at 30°, as with the
lower edge of the upper full sheet. Screw the skirt onto the framing,
easier to remove, if need be. One of my garages has had untreated
T1-11 for 20 yrs.... still in good shape. Prior to installing the
skirt, I primed and painted the 30° cuts and about 10" (a paint roller
width) up the back side. 3/4" nap roller for the rough T1-11, hand
brush it smooth... goes faster than you think. Caulk the butting
edges of each sheet. Caulk the seams/joints of your drip edge/
sheeting.

The bottom edge of the skirt, cut at 30°, doesn't allow water wicking
across an otherwise flat bottom and up the back side. A 12"
galvanized strip, behind the skirt and slightly lower than the bottom
edge, will help keep out any moisture, also... but I'm not sure of
your foundation for warranting this gal. strip.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/4733385477/
.....Detailed pics can be readily gotten, if need be.

Gotta agree with using a moisture barier to keep the contents dry. My shed
went through Hurricane Ike a bouple of years ago and not a drop of water
came in. I did however use the more expensive Tyvek sheathing over tar
paper. I used the Tyvek over tar paper for two reasons, I did not want to
smell the tar smell inside the shed on a hot summer day and the Tyvek is
white not black, that helps the interior to be lighter inside when the door
is the only source of light.