On 10/4/10 5:04 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 4, 5:16 pm, wrote:
On 10/4/10 4:00 PM, RicodJour wrote:
I would not use Hardi without sheathing.
Why? Unless the stuff has drastically changed in 10 years, you don't
need to be over sheathing for a shed.
While the 2009 IRC does allow direct attachement, I rarely ignore the
manufacturer's instructions. Whether it's a house or a shed, if it
fails it ain't good.
The stuff on my shed is about the thickness and strength of 1/4 plywood,
probably a bit stronger and *definitely* much more stable than plywood
or OSB sheathing.
Shed walls generally take more abuse than a house's walls, stuff is
banged up against the walls, etc. Wind and other natural acts
(unnatural acts...?) don't differentiate between a residence and a
storage building. They're equal opportunity destroyers. That's not
necessarily a big problem, depending on where the shed is, and it can
be dealt with by installing let-in bracing (old school, but fast
enough and it looks really cool), or by using metal strapping on the
diagonal in the corners. Like this (bottom left corner):
http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...7403503389.jpg
But as Ron didn't mention where he is, it would be foolish to sell him
on an idea that might not work in his area.
I think you're trying way over engineer a shed.
Everything I've seen on their site speaks about residential
construction, not a storage shed.
You are speaking from a "But that's how I did it and it's fine!" view
point. I'm not arguing your personal experience, but standard
construction, and particularly the manufacturer's instructions,
probably shouldn't be ignored for little reason. I've seen more than
a few fiber cement installations that suffered from elephantiasis due
to inattention to detail. Frankly I'm surprised that your shed has
held up without paint (also no caulk?), as required by the
manufacturer, for so long. Perhaps you're one of the lucky ones, but
I tend to doubt if you hit 00 on the roulette wheel that you'd tell
everyone to bet 00 every time, right?
Again, why are you bringing up manufacturer's instructions that relate
to residential installations? Why would I want caulk on a shed? If water
runs off, that's enough to keep my stuff dry. In any shed, unless it has
HVAC, the temperature and humidity is the same on the inside as the
outside. I actually like some airflow in and out of a shed to keep it
from turning into a greenhouse in the summer. This can be accomplished
with open eaves.
I'm not lucky. Nor are the thousands of other people who put these up as
kits from 84 lumber.
Ron also said he liked the looks of T1-11, so I'd think that should
count for something, no?
The Hardi Panel I put up looks just like T1-11.
Plywood siding goes up faster, is cheaper,
structurally stronger and looks just fine. So where's the problem?
R
I never said there was a problem with plywood.
I said it wasn't necessary under the Hardiboard. If you're going to put
up plywood, just put up T1-11 and have it be structural. If you're going
to put up Hardi... for a shed... you don't need plywood, too.
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