"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 10/4/10 8:03 AM, Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On 10/3/2010 8:02 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Snip



I say this all to point out that, IMHO, the fence should not be
absolutely
parallel to the slot/blade, but should veer away from the blade by a few
thousandths of an inch so as to relieve the possible binding described
above.


Can't agree with that statement, while to some the thought of the fence
veering away from the blade to create "some" clearance between the
fence,work, and blade this pulls danger out of the right pocket and puts
it
in the left pocket.

The work tracking away from the right back side of the blade also causes
the
wood to track into the blade on the opposite side.

Use a splitter to and a parallel fence for best and safest results.


At least a couple fence manufacturers suggest the set-up technique of
having the outboard end on the fence a couple thousandths out.

I don't know if I agree with it or not.
I think a splitter does the most to stop kickback.


I have seen several manufacturers especially the blade manufacturers
recommend the tilted out setting. They are mostly trying to sell a blade or
fence with particular focus being placed on the piece against the fence.
They typically do not rip a 1x8 down the center so much as work pieces with
a majority of the wood ending up against the fence.