much snipping

I say this all to point out that, IMHO, the fence should not be
absolutely parallel to the slot/blade, but should veer away from the
blade by a few thousandths of an inch so as to relieve the possible
binding described above.

ER visits are expensive!

Harvey

with great humility and humbleness, for myself, I have to disagree...

...If for no other reason that the fact that I work on BOTH sides of
the blade, so that means that if I kick the back of the fence out by
.003" on the right side of the blade, that puts me at double that if
I'm on the LEFT side.


Where did the "double" come from? Are the faces not parallel to each other?
That's actually a rhetorical question as I know they are not.

The double comes from the faces of my fence are parallel...as are any
I've ever used....granted, that would actually only be 3 others, but
that makes for 4 and when you get down to it, that's enough for
me...which means that if you move the fence OUT of parallel by 3 thou
to the right and your fence is ON the right, the outfeed end will be
further away then the infeed end.

If you then move the fence to the other side of the blade and make
adjustments, it will be three thou CLOSER to the outfeed as compared
to the infeed.

SO....you have positive 3 on the right and negative 3 on the
left.....that makes for a total of 6 thou difference





I firmly believe that by setting the fence with NO induced variation
and then followed by using the correct riving knife/splitter/hold
downs is the proper way to handle a fence on a table saw.


Parallel is the way to go. That and a Gripper have worked for me for a long
time.