On 20/09/2010 10:10, AL_n wrote:
stuart wrote in news:NYrlo.142501
:

IMO it's more a question of how long the resin will take to cure when
it's applied to a porous surface. Normally you want to get on with the
painting without fear of solvent being trapped under the new coating.

If 2 part wood hardeners are no longer available I would use a standard
polyester resin, although thin layers can still take a few hours to cure
in cool conditions. Low viscosity resins and accelerators are available
from GRP suppliers if you want to get serious.

I trouble with polyester resin, is that the surface remains sticky (i.e.,
doesn't cure) unless a wax additive is used, and a wax additive will
prevent the proper adhesion of any regular paint, as it rises to the
surface. I encountered this problem many times when working with GRP. Apart
from laboriously removing the wax from the surface prior to painting, the
only other solution I recall, was to paint with coloured resin (rather than
paint).

Al

I've never had a problem with the tack, but I've always used a car body
filler on top, which I imagine absorbs any uncured resin